'66 FHC leaking clutch line...Any opinions ?CLASSIC TUBE part#JGH1004-SS

Hi,

New clutch master leaks; using original factory clutch steel line.
Anyone have opinions on the Classic Tube pre made clutch line
JGH1004-SS ?

Are the factory lines fine threaded SAE ? I assume 7/16th OD ?

I’m considering a one piece braided line from clutch master to slave.

As an aside, found new (from usuals) dist rotor does not conduct
between rotor-arm and slotted metal piece that press fits on dist shaft.
But new points open and close fine.

Many thanks,
Patrick
'66FHC

link to part in question: http://www.classictube.com/left-hand-driveset-4-pc.html

I installed a braided line to the clutch slave and installed it nn the bottom of the slave and then another line to a bleed nipple that is located at the transmission access hole and bleed while you sit in the driver’s seat.

Not sure why the solid line enters at the top. Seems like getting the air out should have the outlet on top.

I installed their entire kit, SS throughout the car. The bends were perfect. The only thing they forgot was to flange the reservoir feed lines for sealing, but I let them know and they resolved it. The only thing I recommend is putting a dab of anti seize on the threads before you tighten them. SS tends to gaul against itself and the copper allows you to apply more torque to the joints.

Erica, yes, but you don’t want to over-torque the connections. A good, tight fit should be fine. SS is harder and if slightly malformed it may not seal well. I was talking to John Farrell about this and he sent me a new right front line to the caliper gratis to replace one that was leaking even though it was not his SS line that had the problem. His new line sealed perfectly. Wish he was still in business.

–Drew

Drew,

Correct, but I like to have some control over my torque. What I was finding is that as I was torquing the two SS fittings together it would start squeaking and binding and moving in jumps so the anti seize just made it smooth and accurate. One mechanic chuckled when I said I had bought them. He said they’d leak like crazy, but mine never did, and I suspect this is why.

Im so far out of the loop: when did John shutter his business?

:disappointed:

1 Like

Mmm, 1-2 years ago i think? I can’t recall if he sold out to XKs or SNG but both still seem to offer the many parts that he manufactured. Big loss to the community though. I was able to get so many parts that were missing from my car and he always had em sitting in the shelf.

I’m not sure how we come out with the exchange rate and shipping but my understanding is this is where John’s inventory now lives.
http://www.etypeparts.com/

amen to that …

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Around six months ago. :frowning: I ordered from him whenever I could.

–Drew

John was always glad to visit with me and explain anything if necessary. He went out of his way to make sure the customer was happy and he seemed to genuinely enjoy what he was doing. He was also close to shipping locations. I remember once ordering something late on a Thursday and it was delivered by USPS on Saturday morning. Amazing.

–Drew

Indeed: a simple call to John, for a small part, was always a 15+ minute conversational trip down memory lane for me, given my mom was a native New Yawkah, too!

Classic Tube supplies SS lines ? My clutch leak is at the new from usuals clutch
master; upon applying clutch peddle, the pressure forces leak from master. Wouldn’t
a one piece clutch braided line from master to slave to better than multiple clutch fluid lines ?

Thanks,
Patrick
'66 FHC

Does anyone supply a braided clutch line from the master ?

NOTE: could the clutch master be leaking past it’s treads ?

Thanks,
Patrick
'66FHC

I actually over ordered some brake line braided lines and used one of them for the clutch slave.

I think that’s pretty much what Classic Tube does yes. I’ve had zero leaks anywhere in my system. I should think that having as much hard line as possible yields a firmer more trouble free system. Short flex lines were only ever used when the slave can move a little.

Flex lines are used to allow relative movement between the ends. I really don’t think you want to use a flex line all the way from the master to the slave. As for the second question: the threads aren’t the sealing surfaces. The flare on the hard pipe and mating surface in the master cylinder should be performing the sealing function. If you are getting a leak at the junction between the pipe and the new master cylinder I would be closely inspecting the pipe flare and the seat in the master cylinder.

-David

How will you bleed it? You have put the line on the bottom yes?

Yeah, I just wrestled with that little sucker. Put it on the engine, then had to take it off to install the engine, now I know why the shaped the original as they did.

Are you sure you got the fitting into the slave well enough? I spent a lot of time on it with my custom bent wrench and have absolutely no confidence that it won’t leak once I actually put fluid in it.

The upper line leads to a valve that is located just inside the transmission hole on the passenger side of the transmission tunnel.