fiendishly cleaver. ///////////20
I tried numerous times, and leak appears around the threads, not up the pipe.
Inspection shows no dirt in port area.
If I pump clutch peddle, I can shift no problem, but after she sits, it exhibits slow leak
that results in initial spongy peddle response and no shift ability.
I’m pairing a new clutch master and original '66FHC pipes, no leaks in remaining
clutch pipe fittings, including the new clutch slave; but the pesky new master dislikes
this specfic 40 year old pipe fitting. It has that bend that perhaps has enough tension
to cause the slow leak ?
Patrick
'66 FHC
Below shows the factory original clutch master port, rest of pics are my new master leaks.
That inner taper appears to be pretty rusted: if so, no flare is going to seal.
I agree - it seems unlikely that inner surface (the center ring) would present a suitable surface for a good seal.
Edit - Oops, I just realized that was a photo of your old master and it is the new one that leaks. What is the condition of the tip of the old hard line that had previously been in that port?
As others have pointed out, it doesn’t matter whether you’re actually seeing the fluid coming out the threads. It should have been stopped prior to ever reaching the threads. It might be possible to have that rusted landing machined on the slave but it would probable be simpler and cheaper to just buy a new one.
I have found a hair line crack on the flair of the pipe. It was very hard to see or diagnose. The crack would only show up when the fitting was tightened in the slave or master.Ttake a very close look.
Cheers Jim
Its not supposed to.
Hi,
That rusty clutch master (pic) is the original from a '66FHC, I replaced it with a new
clutch master. I posted the faulty master pic with the thought that the older master
port might differ in design from the newer master; and perhaps the newer master
would not accept the olde original 40yo clutch master fluid line ?
Thanks,
Patrick
'66 FHC
Well,
You might try loosening the other end of the pipe, maybe you just can’t get it in at the right angle. Also clean the rust out of the fitting, slide fitting back and clean the back edge of the bubble or flare to make sure the fitting sits right and forces it into the MC. IIRC the pipe is under a little bit of tension because of the sever curve and that makes it hard to get it in properly and that can feel tight but the thing is not actually tight in the proper way, if that makes any sense.
Also having the line loose will tell you whether or not it’s a question of “acceptance”.
Do you have a spare fitting handy? See if it threads into the MC without any problem.
At least that’s the easy end of the line. Was just looking at mine at engine install, there’s about 1/4 inch clearance between stabiliser brackets, bulkhead bracket and engine. I hope I don’t have to make that one.