66 S1 Front Brake Sticking

I took the car out for a Sunday spin today and all was going well until about 5mi into the drive. I noticed the brake pedal started feeling a little stiff and the car seemed to have some drag. Then the smell of burning brakes (or clutch) accompanying some smoke coming from the right front brake surfaced at a traffic stop. So I limped the car back home, funny about the time I was pulling into the neighborhood it seemed to unstick its self. Brake calipers were rebuilt about 30years ago so I am guessing it is time for a refresh starting with the fronts. I have not pulled anything apart yet, but it looks like it will be the first repair project for the year. Any words of wisdom for this repair would be great. Thanks again.

Hi Skene,
I would suggest a proper and thorough bleeding of the complete brake system.

Have the brakes had any maintenance in the last 30 years…

I should have mentioned I replaced the MC, servo, booster, and vacuum hoses and flushed the system about 4yrs ago. It is unlikely the calipers have received any attention since the rebuild 30yrs ago. In retrospect I probably should have just serviced them at the same time since the system had to be flushed anyway. The rears are a real buggar to deal with. One thing to note I did bleed the system solo using medical syringes which worked pretty well. I have post on that with pics for reference.

Have you checked the rubber flex lines ? Similar to what mine would do several years ago and I found the RH front and the one for the rear brakes to be the culprit. When they collapse inside they become kinda like a one way valve since your foot pressure is much stronger than the release pressure. Mine would stick on and then release after a couple of minutes.

68 E-type FHC

How about tough love :heart:

I think your wishing on a star for someone to say you don’t need a brake job
Probably a wheel cylinder is sticking the rotor was heated and maybe warped yes that can be repaired in isolation . If you have a dial gage you can check the rotor ( you don’t) but After 30years your way over do and if you don’t go through the system you’ll be chasing your tail as each cylinder seizes :man_zombie::moneybag::man_shrugging: Now the good news you can do it and you’ll be better for it

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the good news is you can take the front wheel cylinders off without removing the engine and transmission .

I would crack the crossover lines first then unbolt the cylinders, at least one of them, then undo the lines so I could take off the crossover pipes without bending them. Because they are sob’s to replace and get a good seal because you tend to bend them out of the perfect arcane alignment that is necessary for a good seal.

My RF line is fighting me at the moment.