Another thing….the fuel sender has 2 wires. Is the tank itself grounded? If so at what point?
Maddy
Before bending the copper tubing, insert a long spring with the same outside diameter as the inside diameter of the tubing. This will give you nice bends and prevent the tubing from kinking.
Also, do you have the correct solder-on pump fittings?
The tank is grounded at the front lip, see my photo above.
I use external spring tube benders from Harbor Freight.
Here is the correct routing.
I copied the routing from Tadek’s pre-restoration photo album.
Mike and Rob,
Thank you both for your responses.
I have tubing bender set like Rob’s picture. Thank you Rob for those several photos on routing. I purchased a fuel line kit from XK Unlimited. There are fittings with the tubing.
The grounding of the fuel tank I’ll have to check that I missed that connection as I don’t remember bolting a wire anywhere.
Maddy
If you bought those special spring clips that hold the tube, the method of installing them is to rotate or twist them in, so the pincher jaws overlap each other as they go in, don’t try to just push them straight in.
Rob thanks. Very good thing to realize when installing the clips.
Maddy
About the grounding of the fuel tank. This image is the same way the wiring looks on my XK.
However, the entire fuel tank on the outside has a rubber coating in addition the felts that are in place do not allow any contact with the outside of the fuel tank.
I hooked up a battery and with a light probe looked for some continuity finding none in the boot area at all!
I love sleuthing electrical! Not!
Maddy
Maybe I had a duh moment? Does the key need to be on to check for continuity to the fuel tank?
if you are using a continuity test device with a battery in it (usually one AA) then the …key does not need to be on…it tests continuity of its own power source…as long as there is not too much resistance. I have a ground wire from tank to frame on my car…no idea if orig or a prior owner install. Scroll back up to Rob’s photo of the fuel sender installed with the two wires, color noted. Nick
The key on worked. The tester I have has no power of its own, Nick.
The sender had current and is now wired.
Marianne
Yeah, you would need a clean connection at that ground wire, no coatings, no rust. That ground wire is not on the wiring diagram so I don’t know where the other end is grounded. Maybe somewhere on the right side of the trunk?
OK then…it would be good to have a simple single battery 1.5 volt continuty tester. in your electrical tools …lights up with continuity (use only with power off circuits)… they are less than $6. Many uses. , but maybe you have a multi-volt -meter/resistance reader…those normally have a setting for power off continuity. Nick
Rob,
If the fuel tank was fully insulated from the body and I used a test light between ground and the sender lead with the key to the ignition position would I get the test light to illuminate?
Having followed through with the test I did get current to both leads. I am not sure where the tank would be grounded.
Rob,
In this picture below that you provided, the fuel line fittings turn all the way in.
When I turned the fittings in to when they stopped they still have 3/8 inch to go yet. Is there an explanation for this? Thanks
Maddy
You should see 12V touching your meter pos lead at each sender terminal with the key on and your meter neg lead grounded.
The question is where is the other end of this tank ground wire?
Did you buy pre-bent fuel lines?
All 120s have the same fuel delivery system, except perhaps the alloy cars, so if your fittings don’t reach there is a mistake in the bending or the routing.
Unless I’m not understanding the problem.
Rob, not understanding me I think. The fittings screw into the fuel pump but do not go all the way in as in your picture. There is about 3/8 inch of threads showing that should not be when fully tightened.
Maddy
Rob,
I have very different ends on my line. They came already complete I just had to shape them to fit.
Since I already shaped them I cannot return them. So I am looking at options. There is a fiber washer that fits over the fitting that goes into the fuel pump. Correct or not? If a washer is not needed would it matter that there are several threads showing? Is it possible to get the proper threaded fittings and put them on by sweating off the bead on the end of the pipe put on the proper threaded piece then putting the bead back on the pipe?
So here is what I have that goes into the fuel pump on the in and out lines.
Assuming the end of the tube is the correct shape, as pictured by Rob, there is no problem. The tube nuts on you fuel lines are simply longer that Rob’s…(Rob has small nuts)…had to go there…
Yeah, it looks like your threaded fittings are a longer version of mine. It probably works the same. You do not need fiber washers in there.
But if it really bothers you, you can sweat them off and get shorter ones from SU Rebuilders in San Diego.