The furl pump wire is a white wire running from the pump through the chassis frame and out again and up to either the ignition coil SW or - terminal (the key switched not the distributor side) or the A3 terminal on the voltage regulator, either will work.
A3 is where the coil connects to the ignition switch.
There is also a grounding wire from the fuel pump body screw to any grounding point nearby, should be a small hole right there in the mounting bracket.
Rob,
Now there is an example! The tab off the side goes to the frame. I am assuming yours is a + ground car? The other wire from the top of the cylindrical part is news to me. So I will have to re-examine how that fuel pump connects. Could be why I had smoke coming from a wire!
It will take a few days. We are having unexpected house guests the next week.
Thanks for the clarification. I’ll get on that soon I hope.
Maddy
Maddy, when the time comes to start er up, …Merril and I will visit again…bringing along what we may need. There are a number of systems checks we can do remotely prior to actual start up. Nick (for others–many of you know via the forum of me…and Merrill has worked on the early Jaguars…as a shop owner, for many many many years…I call him the :Jaguar guru" . We are both just an hour from Maddy.)
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Yes, positive ground so the white/black wire on the + terminal on the coil goes to the side of the distributor.
The terminal on the top of the cylindrical part of the fuel pump is where the white wire from the - side of the coil connects.
Rob I have tested the fuel pump outside the circuitry of the car. I did this so there is no question whether the fuel pump works or what it sounds like.
From the pictures you posted on your fuel pump, the wire terminal connecting point by the square body is connected directly to the frame of the car, correct? And the wire terminal at the top of the cylinder goes to the coil or to the AG on the control box, correct?
I ask because I don’t want to burn any wires.
Maddy
Rob that’s excellent! Thank you, I am checking the wiring diagram then using a meter to check continuity and follow up with a test light to ensure I wire things up correctly.
I will post any successes or problems after I learn the wiring.
Cheers!
Maddy
Rob and all else who are following:
I had success in getting the fuel pump is wired in today. Turn the key and the pump turns on. And it went much easier than what I had feared!
Cheers
Maddy
Now that we discussed the radiator and winding up with fuel pump routing questions lets get back to radiator.
The top and bottom radiator hoses are secure yet there is some coolant dripping ever so slowly from those two points. The upper one leaks because I have a radiator sock installed. Capillary action causes coolant to drip. Now that the coolant has emptied some, that upper hose connection does not leak but the lower one does still. I have to wonder is it because the engine has not run heating up the radiator and vulcanizing so-to-speek the rubber to the radiator lower port? I have re-checked the hose clamps and they are as tight as I can get them.
Maddy
Perhaps you have some surface roughness on the water pump and radiator lower ports. They are both steel so can get rusty. Similarly the upper aluminum ports can get a kind of yellow corrosion. But if they are all clean and reasonably smooth, then its just a matter of tightening the hose clamps enough.
Rob,
The radiator ports were cleaned during the re-core process then painted. Unless the paint can cause leaks those two should be good. There is no coolant from any water pump connections. The coolant leak is at the bottom radiator port. The clamp is as tight as I can get it with a flat tip screwdriver. Not sure what else to try.
Maddy
If you have room put on a second clamp 180 degrees from the first one.
Or if you can’t get a second one in there, try a clamp with a hex drive and use a socket wrench on it.
The lower hose on a 120 is a real pain unless you take off the inner valence, which is probably how the factory boys did it.
A second clamp may do the trick. The inner valance is already off. I just have to remove the tire and wheel. Good idea. I am always thinking I have done something wrong.
Maddy