68 E Type Brake

never fear I am a driver … winning 38 North American Slalom Awards, and 6 years annually fastest Man / :grin: car in all jcna slalom competition

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totally correct, having to rev the motor unneccesarilly is a pain… having to make the engine roar seems almost as I am trying to break some record or something…Art

Thx…will be on it week after next, this week going to see if I can still water ski , after having two surgeries… nast y one. was 40#% of my liver removed and 5 tumors… feeling good however and just one more week of chemo pills…Art…

Well, I for one hope you pull through to a complete recovery.

Yes. I second the sentiment. Good luck.

HI Bob, you were right… once I removed the vacum line etc , the car sets off without revving its guts out… what is my best course of action now !!!..
Many Thanks to you and your appropriate knowledge of what I was up against… Art.

Hi Art

Good to hear you tried the simple test. The first, and easiest, thing I would do now is go to your local auto parts store and get 6 feet of brake vacuum hose ( I emphasized this because a lot of people will go in and ask for “brake hose” in error. That will get them hose that will stand up to brake fluid, but NOT VACUUM.) The ID is 3/8". Gates vacuum hose would have a 5/8" OD. Replace all your old vacuum hose and use solid clamps rather than typical hose clamps, like in the photo. If your existing clamps are like those in the photo you can reuse them.

My bet is it will solve your problem. Even if it doesn’t, having all new rubber vacuum hoses is a good thing. And it’s inexpensive. Let me / us know how it goes!

Ps To get to the hoses at the booster, I took the battery out. Made it much easier.

Hi Bob, I shall do that for sure… it was so nice just using the throttle as it should be used… esp just to get moving…

The ONLY vacuum line that could cause a locked brake problem is the one between the reaction valve and the rear of the servo. That’s about the easiest to service, as well.

Does anyone have a photo of this area ?

Art I suggest you don’t piecemeal it, just replace all the vacuum hose. It’s cheap, maybe $35? And a relatively easy, fast, non messy job. Any incorrect or weak hose will collapse to some degree when exposed to vacuum. That movement will result in loss of vacuum pressure to assist in the stopping of the car.

It’s the same thinking that old, weak brake lines which expand under pressure diminish brake performance. It’s why many prefer braided stainless.

Also, my general recommendation on any old car is replace all rubber lines and belts. It will make the car function better, and eliminates/ minimizes future failure opportunities.

I was just wanting to see the main area of concern… no problem getting lots of hose… I have already installed flex stainless lines to the front callipers… I was thinking initially the rubbers had collapsed and were preventing return of the fluid… 6 feet of 3/8 inch vacum hose no problem… My parts store is only half a mile away near Superstore supermarket where I buy my groceries…perhaps tomorrow… E Type is in my garage for nasty weather time right now… X Type will be my daily once the Aston gets into the garage also…!!! and I actually should install a new negative battery line…Many THX… Art…

Here is a photo, I have a T fitting in this hose for a vacuum gauge. You can reach it easily by removing the battery.

This is the ONLY vacuum line that can cause a locked brake problem. The way it works is that when the reaction valve opens, it vents the rear of the servo. Since the front of the servo is (should be) under vacuum, air pressure pushes the piston forward. If you have a leak in this line, the piston will be continuously pushed forward.