youll get it. Sometimes you have to walk away for a day…Then you come back and your wife got it off when you wake up the next morning 
Give it a break……
it will come off…
GTJOEY1314
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If you can’t get the washers off they may be the problem. They can get jammed on the threads.
This could easily be it, brass drift and a hammer to break them free. I’ve also found nothing short of a wooden block and a dead blow would break the manifold free, mine just looked at me when I tried with a rubber mallet. I think you need more shock then you can get with the rubber mallet.
done mine…18 nuts and lock washers, and two water rail sheet metal brackets pulled off the short studs… I then got out my dead blow hammer, a fairly heavy one 3 lbs or soit is an orange one from Harbour FReight in Bellingham… I then pulled out my 16 inch prybar with a plastic handle, and at the front end where all the water pipe attachments are , it is close to the head / cam cover with a small space in between… I then pulled out a paint stir stick and placed it in the gap area against the cam cover side, inserted the pry bar and at the same time applied heavy blows to the top side of the intake manifold…it moved more at the top and not much at the bottom. I then poured in along the top lots of WD 40 liquid, and left for coffee… An hour later I returned and commenced pressurising with the bar, and pounding with the dead blow…After about 6 blows the intake flew off towards me… what a shock…And that was it, now for a dammed good cleaning an polishing everywhere…Best Wishes… Edmund A ( Art ) Dickenson. 604 465 7244 any questions, West Coast time.!!
almost forgot. remove all hoses…
I’ve run into this many times. The worst one I got off by heating each stud with oxy/act torch. It almost fell off after. Careful of fuel fires,
Rob
yes esp when u use a torch…scary stuff… my carbs are still sitting atop the cam covers… Best Wishes… Art
So… new day, new strategy. I’m going to put the secondary throttle back on. I think that will give me two advantages. One is that with only the primary my hammer blows only applied direct downward force. If I put the secondary back on it may give me some leverage and the ability to try to rock the top of the manifold downward
Also I’m hoping it might provide some ability to try to work it up or side to side by giving better access to it, rather than just downward, as the primary is really not accessible. 
.
you need leverage at the front end on the water pipe area and lever and hammer at the same time…same effect as a impact gun…call if u need Art 604 465 7244
Ill happily take it offa yer hands!
Would work PERFECTLY for my hot rod!
Now that Ive said that… set up properly, the manifold works perfectly OK.
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(the slightest of hijack in progress)
Mike, do tell of that interesting bell housing/trans.
Methinks you are in need of a good solid hickory handled 10 pound thunder wrench. Used sparingly at first, but with such conviction and singularity of purpose that there will be no doubt as to the expected result of such an application.
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The gearbox is a Ford Motorsport over the counter Tremec T5Z. The bellhousing is a modified XK 120.
I wondered if a standard Jag bell could be made to work with a Tremec: thanks for answering that question!
It’s not a straight-up bolt on. The T5 bearing retainer has to be tuned down to fit the hole in the bellhousing and the input shaft has to be shortened to fit the shallower Jag bellhousing. The pilot bushing in the crankshaft needs to match the input shaft. And you need to enlist the skills of someone who is very experienced welding old aluminum castings. Originally I was going to simply making an adapter plate, but it would have created an interference with the crossmember (XK120 chassis) and pushed the shifter back beyond the stock location, which is pretty close to original now.
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All processes I can source: Im looking to do a similar swap in my Rover, which has a very similar-sized bell.
When I pulled mine off years ago it came off with no problems.
I think PULLED is the key here. Rig up a slide hammer?
How about using threaded rods nuts and steel stock to pull the thing off?
Glenn
I’ve fitted the European Ford T9 5 spd to my '48 MGTC’s engine. An overdrive makes these cars usable on the highway. It’s being offered by High-Gear Engineering in England. They make their own bell housing making it an ‘open the box and install it’ operation.
Because the trans will be open and seen inside the cockpit, I made (sand cast) an aluminum cover with the MG brand to mimic the older race cars. My first ever pour, came out perfect!
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Hey Glenn
I was thinking something similar, like a gear puller. I have a steering wheel puller maybe I could find a way to rig it…