'69 heater valve replacement

Had to drive back into the garage this morning when I discovered my firewall (driver’s side) heater shut-off/on valve was leaking antifreeze. It leaks, both open and closed, when the engine is running–it doesn’t with engine off.
As I recall, these valves are cheaply made (mine still looks new) but I would like to hear from those of you who’ve replaced yours if you can recommend the best out there. Who sells them, so I can order one (or two, for a spare LOL).

I had to replace mine a couple years ago. Went back through my emails to see who it might have been,but I can’t find an old order on it. All the usuals have them , SNG, XKs, Welsh, Terry’s, but whether they differ or are all from the same source, I don’t know

Yep, I have yet to find a quality replacement. The inside seal fails on a regualr basis. One of those things that you have always got to watch. Jeff S. Atlanta, GA

Looked on XKs website and they’re out of stock at the moment but I’ll phone them Monday to verify. SNG would be my next stop, although I’d like to get one from a US parts house just because it’d be quicker delivery. Also found a couple on eBay (new ones of course) but not knowing their origin I’m reluctant to go there.
As frequently as this part fails I’m surprised no one has come up with a better design/ solution/quality device. With all due respect to originality, this is a functional piece and a lot of improvements have been made since the 1950’s.

This is a very common lament regarding aftermarket parts, on the bright side we have suppliers who are keeping us supplied with parts for our 50+year old cars, other marquee’s are often not as fortunate.

I tend to use SNG as my primary source and I had to replace my 15 yo heater valve (SNG) last year.
As alwaysYMMV.

My original’s still fine and if it failed I would look into rebuilding it - I seem to recall a thread or posts detailing this.

The other bugaboo in the O-ring supplied by the usuals - it may or may not work. If that O-ring leaks coolant may leak into the scuttle appearing as a puddle on the drivers (LH) floor.

SNG does have operations in the US including warehousing and distribution based on the east coast. I’d guess quickness depends on where in the US you’re located. I find XKS fastest for me but they’re just a couple hundred miles up the coast while SNG is on the other side of the country. If you live on the east coast you’d probably experience the opposite.

I had to replace my valve and bought from SNG. It seemed fairly well built and the O ring was the proper size.

Mine failed at one of our club events last fall after we turned the heat on during the trip down. Being about 75 miles from home. I bought a length of heater hose and 2 clamps to bypass it so I could get home. I now carry that hose in the boot in case!!

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I’ll replace mine as soon as I can source one but–in the meanwhile-- please provide us with the details for bypassing a leaking valve.For example: a) Inside diameter of the hose, b) exact attaching points for the bypass, c) approximate length of the hose, d) number of clamps needed. This would be an extremely helpful addition to our emergency road kit.

What I carry (but of course have never had to use):

thank you for the pic, now tell us exactly where this by-pass fits onto. In other words, which two pipes are connected to isolate the heater. Please.

On a S2 it is the connections out of and into the manifold (rear of intake manifold, right hand side).

The arrows in the photo indicate the supply and return lines to the cabin heater. You’ll have to place the jumper between the supply and return connections on the intake manifold to prevent coolant loss. Or, in other words, disconnect the two hoses from each of the pipes in the photo and connect them together.

OK, I get it now. It’s the two long thin hoses (supply & return) going to the heater core that I: 1) disconnect at the front (?) of the intake manifold, and 2) the two intake manifold nipples then are bridged or connected or looped together to close the circulating coolant system off of the heating circuit.
Good enough.
Thank you.

Ricardo, my hose is 1/2" ID by 18" long with 2 clamps. I connect it between the firewall tube that feeds into the valve and the upper heater core pipe. That effectively bypasses the valve and is real easy to get at. It also allows you to use the heat if desired.