#1 in diagram, cabin air temperature sensor housing.
Well I would imagine it would be a WHOLE lot easier to recover the dash top with it out. Check to see if you have an auto upholster near by.
Thats cool it even shows that wierd black box I found behind the stereo! No idea how it wound up there, I am going to try one of those dash repair kits, and if needed hihg gloss vynal spray paint.
The OEM dash is already too shiny, don’t use high gloss on it unless you want reflection city.
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That looks like the cabin air temp sensor.
I had my dash out just to fix the vents and solenoid. good experience.
Well the patch stuff looked awful,the po bought abra and the bag was enough to recover the dash, sadly weldwood contact cement can’t handle the heat in Fl. Any suggestions ? Softens and wont stay attached ? Landau adhesive seems to be able to withstand the heat, any thoughts?I
Dash is ready for new vynal, lessen learned, use high temp adhesive, real bear cleaning up the old glue!
David, are you gonna cover the whole dash with vinyl?
That is the plan, I did it last week but the glue would not hold on the curves due to high temps inside, this time I am using a high temp adhesive! No fun cleaning the soft glue off so this stuff better stick good!
David…
Have you checked youtube for “repairing cracked dashboards”. At a quick glance there appears to be a lot of information and how to’s.
Yes, I even bought a repair kit and it looks like crap so since I had the dash out I figured recover! And all this with just a new stereo in mind!
When I put the dash back in place , the first time, I noticed a small gap where the plenum sits on the evap? Is this too cool all the electronics or simply misaligned?
David …
There should be a thick foam seal that sits on the evaporator and surrounds the opening, You want a nice tight fit between the dash and the evaporator.
Of course the plastic ducting for footwell air that attaches to both sides of the evaporator/heater assembly near the bottom simply snap in.
Yes after close inspection the gasket has shrunk and shifted a bit, nothing a little tape won’t fix.
well the center curved plenum was easy, but I just could not figure how to get a curve to the side vents. At least all the air that goes in there is directed to the side vents so. I should see some improvements. Now when the new glue is cured she is going back together and getting a new although inexpensive stereo, 4 speakers only no rear doors.
David …
I’m sure you’ll see a significant improvement in your overall air flow !
I’m not completely sure how much the curved vanes for the side vents improve things (probably really not all that much) but being a pilot I couldn’t resist the aerodynamics. Don’t forget to block off the hole
at each end of the dash.
As far as an adhesive to put the two halves of the dash together with I would use “Liquid Nail”. This stuff when fully cured is unbelievably strong and sticks to ANYTHING … and it’s gap filling. In other words the two parts don’t have to fit perfectly together to get a strong bond.
Can’t wait for your feedback.
I am going to block the door vents at door hinge just in case I want it back. Also found this old pic showing the orange vac line, strange but with that off demist vents did not work,but I connected the hreen hose there and now they work.
David …
No mystery there.
With any vacuum line removed BUT NOT PLUGGED and the system calls for vacuum on that line it won’t allow a vacuum to be built up throughout the entire system. Therefore no demister vent operation. If I understand your post I believe that would explain it.
I would have to agree but all the unused lines during testing were blocked, but when I connect the orange to the demisters with the black line sealed all works normal just another jag mystery, nbd it all works.
The dash is in withe the ac mods! Major improvement, took the wife to work ,big grin when she said she was cold! Still putting it together, now back to where this started, new stereo, I like the new dash so much I am thinking of covering the cracked veneer around the shift and the center console box top as well!
David …
How about a picture of your refinished dash ?
I reveneered my “ski slope” and ashtray surround years ago and they still looks like new. Not difficult at all just takes time like any good arts and crafts project.
The ski slope and ash tray surround are plastic with metal bonded on the top. This gives you a very smooth surface to attach the new veneer to.
I purchased some nice burl veneer online and used a special contact cement to apply it. I then finished it with about 10 coats of rattle can gloss urethane applied over a 2 week period. It turned out as close to perfect as I could have hoped for. Not difficult but there was a learning curve and several things to be aware of before you start.
There are also newly refinished sets available, such as …
