My original plan was to remove the plate on top of the trans tunnel, so that I could cut the shifter hole with it out of the car. As it turns out, half of the screws are clear up under the dash. So the plate will be staying in the car. The blue tape marks the predicted shifter location. Once I do a trial fit of the trans, I’ll drill a small hole from the bottom where the shifter is at to positively locate it, and then I’ll cut with a big hole saw from the top, and trim as necessary.
By the way, if you’ve been laying awake at night wondering how your automatic transmission shifter cable gets to the bottom of the car, here is the answer. It goes through this nifty access plug down on the side of the tunnel.
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Unplug it (the silver relay) and see if the radio or antenna stops working. (Figs 16.1 and 16.2 in the S57/89 MY electrical schematics.)
I’m pretty sure that this relay has nothing to do with the antenna.
At least at my 86 saloon it is powered when ever I turn the ignition switch On.
OK got it, thanks all! The silver relay is the “Radio Relay.” It provides power to the radio with the key on. It shows on 16.1 mentioned by @DavetheLimey above. From an old @GBalthropXJS post:
“As for the power wiring, there are 5 wires:
Yellow: main/switched power via 20A inline fuse & radio relay & via
suppressor
Red: memory constant power via 2A inline fuse
Black: to suppressor
Red/White: lighting input from panel light circuit
White: output to antenna relay”
As a new head unit is in scope for this project (because who doesn’t tear into the stereo when swapping the transmission? what could go wrong?) this is really helpful information. I will move both the 2A memory fuse and the 20A main radio fuse down below the front console knee vents so I can actually get to them if they blow.
I will also be re-doing the power antenna wire so that power antenna is controlled by rocker switch vs. just turning the head unit on, since 99% of the time I am not listening to the radio. I have a window switch panel from a convertible, I’ll use the middle position for power antenna. I just need to find an SPST rocker that fits the hole.
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Got a package from Moss this morning. Pilot bearing looks like the proper OD to fit in the crank, will wait till the trans shows up to confirm that it’s the proper ID for the input shaft, but I’m pretty confident that it is.
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Wow, seems like your project is moving along with the grace and pace of a true Jaguar 
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I got the ship notice from Summit, trans and clutch parts should arrive early next week.
Today was spent organizing and labeling wires. It doesn’t look that much different but I did a lot 
The console should now go back in easily, I removed a couple feet of wire here and there after I got them sorted and organized, they were just extra slack that isn’t necessary. Notes and next steps:
- reverse light wires are ready to be extended to the trans as necessary. Factory setup is two wires, the trans might be one wire, if so I will add a relay to convert.
- I could use the neutral/drive start safety wires to rig a safety switch for the clutch. I think I’m not going to do that right now. I’ve driven plenty of vehicles without them, not concerned. (Also, as a last resort, if I have a clutch hydraulics failure, I might want to be able to start the car in gear. Once you get moving you don’t need the clutch if you’re gentle and speed match your shifts.)
- I am going to add a couple of amps in the boot as part of the stereo upgrade. Therefore I do not need the factory speaker wires, they are labeled and tucked out of sight. I will be running RCA’s down the console and under the backseat to feed the amps, and all new wires from amps to speakers. At the same time I will remove the remainder of the cell phone wiring, which was run to the console.
- power antenna wire extended along power window harness so it will be easy to connect to new switch.
- the ground strap for the radio is pretty hardcore.
- still need to plug ac ducts.
No plans to do car work tomorrow, but sometime this weekend I will get the bell housing milled as previously mentioned.
Nobody uses those lock plates any more. To be able to bend the tabs, they must be made of soft metal. That soft metal deforms under the compression of the bolt heads, meaning the bolts come loose without unscrewing. That very problem was the bane of the 427 Cobra rear suspension until someone figured out to simply leave the lock plate out. I suspect that’s what should be done here as well, although you’d have to double-check the bolt lengths to make sure they’ll torque up properly.
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The RCA cables should be as far away as possible from any power or speaker cables to avoid interference, so the center console route is not optimal.
I passed them under the carpet on the footwell.
Think also to provide some ground loop isolation.
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Now those are some pictures that I’d really enjoy seeing. Where in the world are you going to mount amps in the boot without taking up (what think is) valuable cargo space? Normally you’d mount them against the back wall, but the spare tire is taking up that space. That is, unless you were to eliminate the spare (which I’ve thought about doing many times.) There’s some space on those little side shelves, but I wouldn’t cal it usable space. I am very interested in seeing what you come up with.
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And beverage to boot! Following your project closely.
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And being an ‘89 it most likely has the later non-rope “explosive seal” as well. I recently had a customer lose his on the highway at 70 mph, and he definitely got some rust protection out of the ordeal — what a hellacious mess.
They didn’t change from the rope seal until well after 1989. And you can see from his pictures that he
doesn’t have the later style seal.
That’s beautiful work, but you’re terrifying people. Nobody expects to have to do a milling job like that when they take on this conversion. Did you prepare any drawings for the milling job? Y’know, something that others could just take to a machine shop and say “Do this to this bellhousing.”?
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Just made me jealous of the milling machine 
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That’s not correct.
I believe The Book also outlines the breakover at VIN 160010 - which is 1989. My customers car is 161067, an ‘89 and is the later seal.
This car is 159803, fwiw. Feb 89.
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Bob, I’ve seen pictures of your engine bay several times.
I (we) only expect the best from you on this project. Keep us informed with all the great pictures and process you’re going through. This information needs to go into the JL’s archives.
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