I used this tool on my XJ40 a few years back and something happened that made it slip during installation and the spring unsprung (is that a word?). I was wearing gloves and got hit on the hand, which resulted in little consequence outside of some pain. Unfortunately, I still had to gather the nerve to continue installing the spring, but I also remember thanking my lucky stars for spending the money for a tool that likely saved me.
Unlike the XJ40 there isn’t any notch in the pan nor any of the two other holes up inside the housing for the ends of the bar to go through. I hope the photo can better explain by trying to capture the holes.
The dimensions for making up the tubes and the instructions for using them are set out under STEERING 57.65.01 and for the rear under REAR SUSPENSION 64.25.18 in the workshop manual for the XJS 4.0L 1991 on.
Frankie
I’ve seen that reference in numerous places and that illustration is exactly the gibberish in which I refer to as “vague at best”
Would you be so kind and interpret that illustration into a language that is easily understood so that any of us can follow along with precise and coherent instructions to making the tubes as well as using them?
In my copy the illustration at Fig 1 is fully dimensioned as follows:- Tube of wall thickness 3.25mm; OD 44.45mm; L1 91.3mm; splay cut at both ends so that L2 is 91.3mm less 22.2mm symmetrically positioned about the centre line. That seems to me to be all the information you need to make it - unless I am missing something?
Frankie
I fabricated mine from leftovers I had out of thick walled 50mm PVC tube for swimming pools.
They do the job fine as long as you don’t raise the front with them installed…
Got the front suspension out. Apprehension and nervousness is an understatement?
After dropping the compressor rod down from the top, the T part of the tool seems to be a little short when fitted into the indentation on the perch. I may have to fit some washers to be on the safe side, I dunno?
That’s the wrong compressor. I mean it might work, but that’s an XJ40 compressor. The earlier style you need has a HUGE lump of bronze instead on that little cross pin.
It looks like you’re really only getting it hooked up on one side. That would probably work if it stayed that way, but if it slipped off - dunno. I would not like to be in vicinity when it happened.
Yep, this compressor is the one that I used on my XJ40. I mistakenly took it for granted that it would work on the XJS as well. I guess I’ll have to figure out a workaround.
Drive the pin out and replace with a longer one? The shaft of a twist drill would work I would think.
Yeah, that’s exactly what I’ve been trying to do, but I can’t get the pin to budge. Thinking about cutting it off flush on both sides and then try to drill through it.
Test for hardness first. Other option would be to drill a new hole further down, assuming the shaft isn’t too hard 
Your reading my mind and I agree. It’s probably better to try and drill a new hole a bit further down. I also thought about putting a torch on the pin but I’m afraid of softening the rod metal. Gonna try a new hole
I’m not so sure I’d use a drill bit for for the pin considering how easy it is to break a drill bit I would’nt trust it considering how much pressure it will have on it from the compressed spring
The shaft part that goes into the drill chuck is normally tempered a bit softer than the flutes, also it is not going to be subject to shock loads. The other option would be a hardened dowel as from memory they are case hardened ?
And there are drills and then there are drills, I have one where the flutes were choked up with swarf and the flutes actually partly unwound!
Success!!! I was finally able to loosen the pin and eventually press it out. I simply used an allen key in the place of the pin, tightened up the compressor, unfastened the plates bolts and slowly unwound the compressor, drama free. Onto the next side.
I anticipate the compression of the new springs will be a bit harder, though. We’ll see.
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This whole suspension refurbishment exercise came about because the right front end of the car was clearly lower than the left side (extremely noticeable upon entering and exiting driveways and the like).
Inspection of the lower right ball joint before tear down revealed a split in the rubber, and the top ball joint was pretty loose when wiggling in my hand
It was also clear that the upper control arm bushings had seen better day.
The same goes for the lower control arm bushings
Lemforder ball joints are the replacements all around
The upper and lower control arm bushings replacements are poly bushes
The only real reason to drop the front subframe was to be able to get to the rear front subframe mounts. I couldn’t see any discernible deterioration but I think that a 26 year old car deserves new mounts, whether it needs it or not.
After unloading the right front spring it was obvious that the spring spacers were shot. The perplexing thing is that they we’re maxed out, two on the top and two on the bottom. That doesn’t leave any room for tweaking. With the addition of new springs (Sport Pack) I dunno what to do. Should I just replace all four spacers, eliminate them entirely of subtract some? I’d love a suggestion here.
The front subframe bushings are being replaced as well
Don’t forget to leave the upper and lower wishbone bushes loose until the weight of the car is on the suspension and then tighten them up.
Curious, as i will be removing my springs and dropping subframe this winter.
Is it better to drop subframe and then remove springs? Or remove springs and THEN drop subframe?
6 of one 1/2 doz of the other, depends on what room you have it’s probably easier off the car to some extent but with the sub frame still in the car then things are more secure.