94 6.0 steering pump leak

(dhs@navyskydoc.com) #1

So I have had a leak for a while, put in some stop leak with some help. So had to pull the radiator and took the shroud out. Washed down the bottom with Gunk and it was the pump leaking the rack looks dry. Got the pump out and feel I should change the hoses since I’m that far along. Low pressure hose pushes on and the high pressure is a fitting. Trying to see how to pull the hoses off the rack. Do I have to drop it? Can I leave the ball joints connected? Do I have to disconnect the steering column from the rack? Coventry West is sending a pump and high pressure hose.
Danv

(BobPhx) #2

The 5.3L answer is to leave the ball joints connected and drop the rack, which means you also need to disconnect the steering column. It’s not that bad. Leave the hoses disconnected at the pump until last, you’ll need the slack.
I seem to recall that I did it once from the side after removing the wheel, but that was after I had installed the non-cat down pipes, so I had some extra room, and it was still miserable. Way better to just drop the rack down a bit.

Hope that helps-
Bob

(dhs@navyskydoc.com) #3

Thanks, I have pulled the two main bolts, I think with the oil filter off I can get to the bolt on the column if so I can do it with out having to remove the left exhaust manifold. Will order a new filter to night, will not get the parts until next week so I have time to work on this.
Dan

(BobPhx) #4

Dan - pay attention to how the steering wheel is “clocked” when you remove the column bolt. On my car the splines were not indexed as one might expect, it could go together in any orientation. There is another thread on this topic going on now, but the short of it is that you want to center the rack and steering wheel before reconnecting. There is a hole on the top of the rack - sorry I don’t recall exactly where - that you can drop a drill bit into when the rack is centered - an internal hole will be lined up with the hole you can see. So, before reconnecting, you’d want to center the rack, drop the bit in to hold it centered and then center the steering wheel before mating the splines. Also, if the rack has any side to side play at the main bolts, consider adding some washers per the Book. Lastly, this is one job where quality tools make the difference. Get some really good tubing wrenches if you don’t have a sent. Not Harbor Freight specials.
Regards
Bob

(Maynard) #5

If the spines aren’t indexed, take some whiteout or a crayon and mark where the shafts enter the u joint

(dhs@navyskydoc.com) #6

Yes, will mark it and I have seen info on the centering pin, will go after the u joint then the upper screw on the left side. with luck I can get by without removing the left exhaust manifold!
Dan

(dhs@navyskydoc.com) #7

What I learned today, had to drop the left exhaust down pipe, to do this you remove the center section first, the front outside nut has to be done from the top with the air cleaner box off then disconnect the O2 sensor plug. With the car on the lift, finish removing the exhaust. Then the three bolts that hold the rack, used red nail polish to mark the steering position. Removed that bolt and the rack will lower and you can get to the hose fittings. The low pressure return hose has one fitting and the cooler end is a clamp on. Both low pressure have a reflective sleeve over them. These were completely worn out.
I took them to the airport mechanic to see what could be used, he recommended dash 12 silicon fire sleeve to protect them from the exhaust.
I found a main high pressure hose no problem, the low pressure hose from the rack to the cooler, I found in the UK! So I ordered it, the low pressure hose looked the worst, I think my high pressure hose had been replaced in the past. Coventry West is building a pump, I will have to put the attaching parts off mine on it then return the pump for a core.
It looks to me like the pump has been weeping for some time since that part of the engine is really covered with sludge. I put a wrench on all the oil pan bolts they were all tight, not bad for 225,000 miles.
Will get photos when I get all the parts.
Dan