A/C system ..... here I go again

Several years ago I rebuilt my entire A/C system, all new parts under the hood. Excellent results with temperature at the center vent as low as 37F. But I’ve always been disappointed with the way this system distributes that nice cold air.

First the fan blower only has three speeds.

Low speed … Very low volume, which is nice
Med speed … Just a little more volume but not that much
High speed … Blows you out of your seat and is so noisy that it’s almost unusable.

So effectively you have only two usable speeds with Med being pretty wimpy and nowhere near equally between the high and low speeds.

The other problem is that you have no choice of where the air goes. The cold air is always directed out of the dash outlets AND the footwell (which also diverts some of it’s air out of the rear of the console). So at least 50% of the total air is directed where you can’t even feel it. Hey … on a really hot day I want almost 100% of that cold air coming out of the dashboard vents and going by me first on it’s way to cooling the cabin. Even the cheapest cars have that option.

So I’ve decide to modify the distribution system to deal with the “warmer” Texas weather.

First I’m getting rid of all the automatic stuff and running the system in manual. I’m changing over the three speed fan switch to variable speed using a PWM (pulse-width modulation) controller. A very slick new tech way of giving your fans whatever speed you want between off and 100%. With the added bonus of very little heat and these things are very inexpensive. This will involve pulling out both fan assemblies (argh) and a bit of modification to the existing fan switch but, bring it on.

Next I have to figure out how to command the lower blend door to close while I have the system on full cold. This will send all the air through the dash outlets.

As you can see from the diagram the only time the lower blend door is fully closed is in the defrost position, but I should be able to figure that out.

Lastly I’ve permanently fixed my recirculation doors on the two blower assemblies to the cabin air position to maximize the cooler air that’s in the cabin and not trying to cool hot
outside air.

PRAY FOR ME !

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Have you chosen one yet? There are so many out there…let us know the results of your research.

Robert …

I’ve ordered two of these units :

30 amps should be more than enough for each fan which I believe draw somewhere around 15-20 amps under full load.

Thanks! I saved it in my Amazon list. Let us know how it works…one just sold on eBay was defective as received. Love that Chinese spelling…DC Motor Actiyation. :slight_smile:

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Yeah, the V not even close to the Y on the (Chinese) keyboard.

I am in Florida and the 3 speeds are fine for me, it seems that when I removed the center vents I broke a vaccum thingy, stuck a piece of wood in there and the air blows out of the center vents perfectly! Sure would like to know what that vaccum thing is for! I dont see how how to remove the vent without breaking it!

David …

What you’re referring to is called The center vent control vacuum actuator (or solenoid). It’s a simple vacuum operated dashpot that normally holds the dashboard center vent door closed and only opens it when air conditioning is selected. When it fails (usually the plastic housing actually splits and it’s internal spring forces it apart) it keeps the center vent door permanently closed and the normal quick remedy is to prop open the center vent door with a stick or short piece of heater hose. The only way to get to that failed actuator is to remove the dash top (rather complicated job) and then access it from the opening in the bottom of the dash top.

By the way if you are seeing moisture (fog) on the inside of your windshield above either of the two demist vents when you are running the air conditioning then the demister flap assembly on that side has failed open. Again the only way to access those two assemblies is with the dash removed. Check my photo album for pictures.

Before you do anything though check to make sure the vacuum lines to these assemblies are still attached and that isn’t the problem.