A new door comes with it’s gifts, and challenges.
A few before/after shots showing 2 hours labor in the shop last night, to close the year.
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Very nice. Can you explain what you did to help some of us less skilled? Pleeease!
easy to see, he used lead!
Oh yes, now thatI look at it more closely. IPad doesn’t give as good a shot at a computer.
I like to work with some sticks of 70/30 lead that I’ve had since 1974, when I restored my first E-Type. I was taught by an old Model A club member in 1973.
You must tin the area first, that’s key, and tin a larger area than you think so if you’ve underestimated and spread past, you’re covered. There are plenty of Youtube videos showing how to use lead. In a nutshell, it’s like spreading bondo except that temperature control is key. Too hot and it’s on your shoes, too cold and it won’t move. A propane torch with a low flame is all you need. Acetylene is overkill, but I’ve used it. When it’s just right you can work it like cream cheese on a cracker. I will admit I put almost as much lead on the floor as on the car when I’m out of practice.
After cutting and shaping the cold surface you MUST neutralize the acid in the flux so you don’t have paint problems.
I don’t use lead everywhere, but I like to at large welded panel repairs to add a bit of strength, and at edges where if you do have a mishap, it’s strong enough to withstand a good hard clobbering, like door and hood openings.
Not me:
I’ve used lead before when I restored my E back in the late 90s. So I’m familiar with working with it and had been toying with the idea of doing the same as you have with doors and skins I purchased in 2007 that definitely need some gap help. There are both gap and height differences that it will help. Just didn’t know if that was common
Thanks for sharing Mitch!
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Any difference on aluminium? Same tinning paste?
Thanks, looks good.
That’s a good question. I don’t know.
I used lead in Tweety’s body resto: it’s a fun process!
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Lead will never bond to aluminium
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I found this. I think I heard him say it was 50/50, tin/lead. Apparently it can be done. I’d want to practice a bit before committing to doing it on a valuable panel.
I have heard it can be done, but It ain’t ever gonna be me, attempting it!
Exceed 750F, and aluminum can be permanently annealed. IIRC, to keep it properly tempered, it has to be kept within a range of 400-450 F: my Eyecrometer© ain’t that good!