A rare Saturday afternoon; not working, home alone, it’s not raining.
Replaced carb needle valves for new (bit whiffy / suspect over fuelling), yet to run but varnish on the rear float bowl bolt and no fuel in the bowl supported the suspicion. Although the carbs were ‘new’ a couple or three years back, I discovered the wrong size needle valves had been fitted leading to fuel starvation under load (hill climbing mainly) and so I swapped them then for an old set of the correct size but they were an old set in the parts box for a reason. Haven’t run the car yet but at least this element is hopefully eliminated.
Didn’t take long, so what’s next? Mindful the fuel pump wiring, whilst not bad, is not neat and could be more secure so off with boot liner panel and in we go; few solders / crimps / cable ties later all is well.
Still early; well those boot liner panels take a bit of a beating – a bit of a clean up and a spray over in satin black – great improvement. Hmmm, some of the holes where the fixing screws go through a bit scruffy/worn. Idea; cabinet makers brass screw cups, painted black – just the ticket.
Wife number 1 still not home and it’s only 5.30.
You know, it has been years since I removed rear view mirror (chrome Lucas job) to give it a good polish and lube the locking nut arrangement – polished the locking nut as well.
Good to do little jobs on the car’s , one of my pet hates is them Crimp wire connectors , for a few ££ you can get the right connectors and plastic covers , they look far better , and you can’t beat a bit of solder for a 100% joint !
I spent the morning sorting the Garage out , ready for my engine change , had to move 2 bikes out , so started them up , and got them hot , going to talk to the Son in law , get him up tomorrow to give me a hand to take the bonnet off , yes its a Bonnet , a Hood is on the back of a Coat
Short trot out today - fuel up / tyre pressures / local tip and supermarket. Whifiness has gone and idle seemed smoother so feeling confident at least the rear needle valve was bad. Happy days.
Still got that annoying occasional erratic ‘click’ from end of dash / A post area. Random in terms of timing and not related to bumps but if car moves on suspension more evident. Suspension ruled out; engine bay cables / pipes etc ruled out; glove box and glove box door ruled out- methinks it might be the barely visible but now paper paper dry vinyl (Ambla) trim between A post and dash - another dry sunny day here in Ukadia so investigations continue.
I think probably original. It was definitely the case on the S1 XJ6. OE option was one Lucas LR8 and one Lucas FG8, controlled by the same switch and on at the same time. The spot (LR8) was fitted towards the centre of the road (driver’s side).
I thought about mentioning that too, but decided it was too pedantic.
Crimping is superior in virtually all applications involving flexible wire. Has to do with solder wicking plus other considerations. BUT, for we amateurs, unless you know what you’re doing in choosing the fasteners and particularly the crimping tools, soldering can be more foolproof. IMHO.
Just had a look on the internet , found more that say solder then crimp , so I will stay with solder , and beg to differ , I have never had a solder joint fail , but lost count of the crimp joints I have had to replace in the past , because of lose wires , like most things I guess , the job is only as good as the person doing it
lol I checked too, as I was always of the impression that a properly CRIMPED joint was specified in the highest end applications, and that is what I concluded
The main issue being everything must be perfect, and most people dont have adequate crimping tools
a properly done crimped joint cannot fail mechanically, is “cold fused” to the connector physically & electrically, and correct insulation prevents any corrosion
