New perspective this AM Edge back to almost normal. On me. I must have touched the X in the corner., toggling screen size! No background,. but the icons for most visited sites remains. good enough.
Glad frank agrees with my view of voltage. And, the switch.
useful description of how the alternator handles loads.
Just to add a point to this thread regarding the alternator…
Alternators have a set of carbon brushes that contact with the commutator and these brushes wear down over time. If they get to the limit of their wear, they will not make good contact with tue commutator and this can lead to reduced charge output.
My Series III has a Bosch alternator and it was only delivering about 13.1V at 2000 RPM. I removed the alternator and it had a removable brush pack. The brushes were indeed worn. I was able to get a replacement pack at the high street auto electrical specialist for the equivalent of about $20. After fitting, voltage at the battery at 2000 RPM is now 14.1V. A much more cost-effective repair than replacing the entire alternator.
Incidentally, I was able to remove the alternator from the car without removing anything else. It just fitted coming down working from inder the car.
Final update… I removed the green knob battery cutoff and now she starts much stronger and no issues.
So lesson learnrd. That switch was the main issue. I will deal with maybe an alt rebuild down the road just for good measure.
After looking at the cutoff once removed I think it is not the best design. So little metal-to-metal contact compared to cable-on-post.
I put it on Jag straight six because I had one on my little 75 BMW 2002. But cranking that little sewing machine motor versus that XK is a huge difference I realize.
Again thanks all!!
Randy
Resolved!!! Always a good thing.
Carl
