Hello Jag lovers, I have a 1994 xj6/40 base sedan, mfg date 1/94 and the left and right ac/heater fans do not work at any speed. The heater control unit is full functional electrically meaning all the red indicator lights work when their respective mode button is on. All the vacuum activated parts are also fully functional. Fuses are good on both sides. I am now focused on removing and testing the fan motors and relays. My immediate problem is removing the two cable connectors attached to a bracket riveted to the fan motor cover. This bracket has several tabs with a pimple in the center and it appears the electrical connectors would just slide over BUT they will not slide off. There are no visible locking tabs on the connectors. Can anyone give me a clue how to remove the cables from bracket and
how to disconnect the connectors from each other. I prefer to move forward with caution and release the gorilla when all else fails. Any info will be greatly appreciated.
Sorry for the long post but I wanted to give you all I know up front.
Gary âŚ
A little history please. Did both fans stop working at the same time? If thatâs the case the odds are that itâs not the fan assemblies that are at fault but an upstream problem with their power supply. So before you start pulling out the fans Iâd troubleshoot that first. How long have you had the car, did they ever work?
Normally on these cars if there is a problem with the electronics in the fan housing they fail to high speed only. Having both motors seized up would be quite a coincidence.
Thanks for your reply. I have had this car for about 5 years and the fans did not work when I bought. At that time the fans were the least of my problems. I have upgraded just about everything and am now working on the nit-picking items. The a/c compressor is seized and the evaporator is damaged (I have a replacement) and who knows what else it will need. I thought the fans would the easiest and cheapest to fix and if nothing else I could get some heat in the winter. I am totally lost reading wiring diagrams but I can check relays and jump wire fans etc.for a starting point. Several years ago I saw a detailed diagnostic instructions on troubleshooting this same problem but I havenât be able to find it again. If I could get those two cable connectors off of the fan motor housing so I can get the fan on my work bench should be able to eliminate the obvious
before I state pulling my hair out over wiring diagrams. If you know the secret to removing and disconnecting those two cables I would be ecstatic. Thanks again for any and all suggestions.
Gary âŚ
We definitely should be able to help you getting your climate control system up and running.
If you can give us a little more information âŚ
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Are the fan assemblies still installed or have you removed them ?
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âIf I could get those two cable connectors off of the fan motor housingâ ⌠a picture would really help
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How is the evaporator damaged ? Is it still installed ?
Normally fan motors donât just break. Most of the times if they havenât run a bit of lubrication in the bearings is all they need. These arenât high amp draw motors so i doubt if their internal windings are bad.
Also if you add a flag to your name weâll know where you are.
First off, I am not concerned with the a/c components at this time. I will deal with that if and when I get the fan to work. I think I will be looking forward to heat long before I get to replacing a/c hardware.
I am starting on the passanger side
(US) fan because itâs the easiest to access. The fan assembly is still in the car because the two cables have the fan captured. That is why I need to know how to remove the
male/female connectors from their mounting bracket which is riveted to the fan case. These cables do not connect to the fan, they are just secured to the fan box. As a foot note, my car does not have a glove box in the dash. Everything is accessible by removing the under dash cover.
I do have a photo of the offending cables
but I donât know how to attach it to my comments. Also I donât know about a âflagâ
bur I will try to find out.
Thanks for your input.
I am in Rock Island TN
I am trying to find out how to attach, copy, upload, share or whatever method works to send a picture of the cables.
Gary the 8th icon from the left on the tool bar is the upload function, this is what you will see;
Follow the prompts but make sure you let the photo load before hitting the post button.
For the flag go to your avatar top right, tap the figure of the person and go to preferences then profile, scroll to the bottom and choose your flag.
First thing you should check is to see if you have 12v on the brown w/blue tracer going to the blower(s) from the fusebox.
That wire should be powered even with the ign off. If you have power there, ignore the advice below.
No power? You have a cold or cracked joint in the fuse box(es) - very common with 94MY cars. Reflow solder joints at fusebox.
Oh and the fuses will still test as good when the fusebox is broken, so testing good across fuse connectors will mean nothing. It is the rear of the fusebox that is the problem; the juice canât get from the blower fuse circuit to the harness.
Thanks for your reply. I am thinking along the lines that you suggest but I canât test anything until I get access to the fan and those two cables I described in my first post will not detach from the bracket they are mounted on. Until I learn the secret of releasing them I am pretty much dead in the water. I see no tabs to push or lift that would unlock them from their mount. I tried some mild prying with a screwdriver without results. Every other connector in the car has some kind of tab
to press to loosen it. I am missing something.
I am working on my cellphone (android) and nothing you mentioned was familiar to it. I could find no links to upload a photo or anything to do with a âflagâ. I can email photos if I had a recipient.
Gary - try turning your phone 90 degrees (wide or landscape rather than up-and-down or portrait orientation). On my Android phone, this is how the Jag-lovers site looks in portrait mode:
This is how it looks in landscape:
Your avatar (symbol) should show in the upper right corner of the screen. My avatar is the Rat Fink; yours is an âRâ in a purplish circle. Tap on your avatar to access your profile preferences.
Tap on the person icon (far right, below your avatar) to see the menu:
Note you will have to scroll down the screen to see the full picture. I find J-L is much easier to use on a desktop PC or a tablet.
I want to thank everyone who offered suggestions on how to trouble shoot my problem. As far as getting the two cables disconnected from the fan housing I think the pimple on the tab probably fit into a dimple in the connector and I just need to apply more pressure to pop them off. If that doesnât work Iâll just drill out the rivets securing the brack to the fan. That should give me enough slack to fish the fan out.
I hope! That should give me access to the wires going to the fan to begin check voltage, etc.
Again thanks to all, this site is awsome.
You can backprobe the brown with blue tracer wire(s), no need to wait til you disconnect the plug. Circuit testers usually have a sharp point you can use as a probe or push a paper clip into the back of the connector, failing that use a needle to pierce the wire and if you canât even do that, you can bare a section of the wire and tape it up after youâre finished testing.
Thanks for your input.
There is such a maze of wires surrounding the fan box I had to go on ebay to look at a heater box to see where the power cable plugged in. I think I will try to get behind the fuse panel and test the brown/blue wire there for 12v. If the fan is hot all the time then by turning the fan on current should go to ground. Anything I need to know about that other than testing the actual wire and not the solder joint? I probably wonât get back to the fan issue until later in the week. Thanks again for helping.
Just make sure that wire has power all the time. If no 12v on that wire your issue is in the fusebox, not necessarily the blower.