AC system recharge and check

I don’t know the story of my XJ40 AC system. When i bought it the previous owner told me that the AC was working (it was winter unfortunately) but now i found that probably there is no gas because the compressor does not engage. The system is still equipped with R12 gas (the valves are of the old types) and i have not jet found a mechanic that want to recharge my system. so i thought to but a kit like this

do you think it will be suitable for recharging the AC?

Andrea …

If your serious about getting your air conditioner to function properly …

  1. The VERY first thing you have to do is determine the integrity of the system. In other words will it hold pressure without leaking. You accomplish this by doing a vacuum check which involves a set of manifold gauges and a vacuum pump. If your system won’t hold pressure anything you put in will simply leak out. Bad for the environment and worst for your wallet.

  2. Seriously you MUST do a vacuum check (I think I just mentioned that). if the system holds a vacuum only then can you move on. If it won’t you must find out why or you’re wasting your time (and ours) and money.

  3. If the system holds a vacuum or it didn’t and you repaired it (which may be easy or incredible difficult depending where you find the leak(s)) now you have to determine what type of refrigerant you’re going to fill it with, it will require approx 2 1/2 pounds.

  4. There are only 2 types of refrigerant used in XJ40s. Early models used R12 (generic name FREON) and later models came with R134a. Since R-12 is no longer readily available but it is still out there at very high prices.

  5. Systems that were originally R-12 have been converted to R-134a with varying degrees of success.

Here’s the problem, R-12 AND R-134a are NOT NOT NOT compatible with each other. You cannot pump R134a into an R-12 system and expect it to work (well not for long, if at all). Two completely different animals that work at different pressures and require different types of oil and hoses.

So to answer your question about this mystery “EasyKlima set” here’s what it says it contains …

Screenshot 2023-05-11 at 5.46.54 AM

WOW it contains the “EQUIVALENT” OF BOTH R-12 AND R134a in one can, how can that be? … sure looks like snake oil to me. And at that price it would cost you around $300 to fill up your system.

Sorry but when it comes to A/C systems there are no shortcuts.

Very common replacement, this will be just another can of hydrocarbon refrigerant widely used in DIY/off the shelf hardware store solutions. It is an excellent refrigerant and if your A/C system is simply low on refrigerant, a very good solution for the average handyman.

Hydrocarbon refrigerants like this, (Duracool and products labelled R12A etc) are flammable of course, but I’ve not heard of an A/C system fire so I wouldn’t worry about that aspect - propane has been used as a refrigerant for many years with no problems.BTW, You can get this stuff cheaper, go to Amazon and search “R12a” it’s pretty much all the same.

First thing to try is to momentarily jump the A/C compressor relay with a fused jumper wire to see if the compressor engages. If it does, you can proceed with adding the refrigerant following the advice on the can. If the compressor doesn’t engage, don’t bother buying the product as you’ll be wasting your money. Hopefully you don’t have a major leak or your A/C won’t last very long!!

I have an R134A factory system in my '94 and will be charging my system with R152A (computer “duster”) next time it needs it as R134A, like R12, has been deprecated and is already unavailable to DIY’ers in Canada.

I posted a thread last year on using R152A in a R134A system, unfortunately that doesn’t apply to an old R12 system without some other modifications, pretty much the same amount of steps as going from R12 to R134A.

Using R152A, my costs are about $5 a can, so about $10- $15 for the whole job :wink: - although my vacuum pump and refrigeration gauges added a one-time eBay investment of about $200.

Can you help me tò figure how tò engage AC relay tò try if the compressor start? A photo of where tò put the jumper maybe!?

Sorry can’t remember off hand but I think most 4 pin relays use same pins for power and ground. Should be able to google something or search the xj40 forum archive on the a/c topic for some tips.
quick search:
([xj40] compresser clutch won`t engage - #3 by GBalthropXJS)

Larry …

“Easyklima” is an “excellent refrigerant”… hmm. Other than its own advertisement I can’t find any information on it. Have you actually used it and what’s in it? I think I saw somewhere (can’t really remember) that it’s a Canadian product so maybe you can help with that.

Decided to do a thorough research on R12a and “DURACOOL” and here’s what the EPA (Environmental Protection Agency) in the USA has to say about them …

Screenshot 2023-05-11 at 4.49.46 PM

Screenshot 2023-05-11 at 4.50.09 PM

So these products may damage your system and are banned in the USA ! But apparently it’s legal to sell the stuff, just not to use it. Typical !

The search for a “drop-in” replacement for R12 (freon) has been the holy grail of vintage car owners.

The use of R12 has not been banned in the U.S… It’s still allowed in cars originally equipped with it. It’s just it’s production that has been banned since 1996.

But because it’s become almost completely unavailable over the years and requires a certified technician to handle it the accepted compromise replacement has been R134a which requires quite a few modifications to the system to be truly effective and long lasting. This is because it uses a different oil and operates at higher pressures. Additionally the molecules are smaller so they leak through the A/C hoses.

Like anything in life it’s best to do your homework and make your own decisions. So like Forrest Gump
so eloquently stated … “That’s all I have to say about that”

First let me state that my views on getting old car A/C systems going by the home enthusiast are based on personal experience which may or may not suit other members needs.

R134A is no longer available in Canada in small quantities and purchasing it requires a refrigeration ticket. Cannot be sold in 12 oz cans and any imports from the USA are confiscated at the border. Typical cost of an industrial size container is staggering and well outside the casual user’s budget…

No new vehicles have been produced for the few years with R134A systems. It’s use in automobile refrigeration has been deprecated.

Duracool, Red-Tek and other “R12A” refrigerants are widely used in classic cars and old vehicles with R12 systems. Duracool is basically a butane/propane mix and has excellent cooling abilities, way better than R134A. No doubt Easyklima is also a R12a type of refrigerant, so it would work just like Duracool - which BTW has no restrictions on use in Canada. It is widely available at any average auto parts store or even Walmart.

I don’t see how it could “damage” any R12/R134A system as it is compatible with both and can be installed by a fairly handy home mechanic without too much trouble. Not a perfectionist fix perhaps but not everyone has a vacuum pump and a set of manifold gauges or the ability to read and interpret the readings -but- if it’s 100 degrees in the shade it will certainly be better than no A/C at all.

As you know, in my own R134A systems I use R152A which is totally miscible/compatible with R134A systems. It also cools better and has 10 times less of an environmental footprint than R134A. The systems also require a smaller quantity.

Interesting that the EPA has restrictions on Duracool as it is the go-to refrigeration replacement for the 1970’s GMC motorhome according to the forums with most of the 800 odd surviving examples based in the USA running it.

I have finally brought my car to the service to recharge the AC … they told me that it’s ready… they implemented r132 instead of r12 , I hope I will have fresh air…

Wow… my mechanic had a small reserve of R12 and recharged the system with R12, it seems that the system holds pressure… now the AC blows frosty air.

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