Advice for a better loctite to solve rear suspension hub clicking

I found this tds. It does not describe removal procedures but there is a graph of strength vs temp which shows a fairly constant decline as temp increases.

Iā€™ve actually been wondering if the problem is the new hubs - that is, are the internal splines made to the same specs as the original. I donā€™t know how to measure that, nor do I still have an original around to compare it to.

The decline occurs in temps the hub would see in normal operation. I wonder if thatā€™s what occurs with the blue thread locker which as I say is ok until everything heats up.

My left rear clicked before I did the new hubs and has clicked after the new hub installed with old spline
None of the other wheels do thisā€¦

My understanding is that the loctite red is stronger which is why heat is needed to loosen it (not mechanical torque like for Loctite blue)

And there is a lot of torque on the spline/hub when you take foot off the gas or accelerate!

Dennis

If you look at the tech sheet for Loctite 648 it says disassembly is with normal hand tools. Itā€™s strength at heat is better than the ones being discussed - like the 660. Iā€™ve used Loctite 609 which is a retaining compound on several things and itā€™s incredible - actually I couldnā€™t get it apart even after the application of significant heat. 648 is recommended for slip fitted assemblies like the splines. Just an aside these fill voids to a depth of 9 thou. I suspect the spline fit is sloppier than that.

I think this might be the stuff to use: http://tds.henkel.com/tds5/Studio/ShowPDF/243%20NEW-EN?pid=648&format=MTR&subformat=REAC&language=EN&plant=WERCS