Air Con Advice Requested, Please

Ahoy !
Hope all had an enjoyable Summer
Re: 2001 4.0L V8, Naturally Aspirated, LHD, Air Con lines
Any tips, tricks, suggestions on separating the line aka Tube from the Evaporator (Line P/N XR22786) from the line aka AC Tube rom the Compressor (Line P/N XR14089) ? (Used P/N’s from SNG Barrat site. Thank you.)
I removed the saddle clamp (aka Special Pipe Clip P/N XR81499) and, expected that after a little grunting the two tubes could be pulled apart. I am assume a slip fit. I don’t know if the aluminum oxidized/galvanized or the three O-rings turned to glue but, I cannot get the joint to budge. So, any tips, tricks suggestions ? I cannot afford to move to a climate that does not require air conditioning.
After much futility, my first work-around thought was to give-up trying to separate the two tubes; and, instead, leave them connected, unbolt the Compressor side tube (14089) so I had the entire end-to-end free, cut one of the tubes so they could be separated and removed from the engine bay. Of course, the Compressor tube also would need replacement - additional cost but, the job would be done. But, but, but,- Alas ! - another difficulty. A branch of the Compressor tube attaches the Condensor and this is not an easy disconnect.
Thanks much.
Best Regards,
Richard Cielec
Greater Chicago Metro, U.S.A.

Why don’t you just purchase the tools to separate the fittings?

The A/C lines and Fuel Lines have had this type of fitting and the tools for many years now.

Search for A/C and fuel line disconnect tool

Thank you, very much. I did not know such a tool was needed. This is the first time I’ve R&R’d an Air Con system and I am not familiar with this type of connexion. Learn something everyday.
I apologise for the delayed reply. An unexpected situation came up that kept me off-line for several days.
Thanks, again.
Richard Cielec
Greater Chicago Metro, U.S.A.

Do you know of a specific tool that fits the Jaguar line ?
I spent several hours Saturday afternoon running to several different auto parts shops but, could not find a tool to fit the 15/16 O.D. line. The largest I found was 7/8 and this dia. was too small.
On-line search results presented same/similar tools I found in the parts stores.
Richard Cielec
Greater Chicago Metro, U.S.A.

Hello, All:
Passing this along in event someone else encounters the same -
I identified the problem preventing use of the disconnect tool and, for a change, it wasn’t me.
The steel spring and the aluminum tube are in a condition of galvanic corrosion: the spring won’t budge.
Soaking with amonia or lye is not possible so, I’ll need to use a small rotary tool to cut away the connector housing (evaporator line) and extract the spring.
With this connextion having no seal to protect the spring lock and being located on the underside of the car, the galvanization is no surprise.
Upon re-assembly, after the two lines are joined, I’ll apply some anti-seize compound but, without a seal, I don’t know how effective this will be. Perhaps I can find a O-ring or a hose gasket that could work as a seal.
Richard Cielec
Greater Chicago Metro

What puzzles me is why you want to separate them, have you charged the system and completed a leak check? Troubleshooting is the most usual procedure, also there are motor driven transducers in the air delivery system that jam or develop open circuits, ask more questions, do you plan to remove the evaporator core and the condenser and muffler and the accumulator, do you have knowledge and equipment to release the refrigerant?
To evacuate the system of air and to recharge it and to replace lost oil? stop before you do unnecessary damages

Just put some penetrating oil or engine oil on the spring let it sit and then try it again, if this does it bully, if not pry under the spring and pull it out bit by bit please don’t cut it off that only takes you backwards did you take off the high side tap cover and depress the shraeder valve to see if there is any pressure? Chances are there is unless there is a cut in one of the hoses

Sincere thanks for your concern.
Yes, the system is compleatly de-presurized and spent.
I am wanting to replace as many obviously failed components as possible before taking it to a shop for expert diagnosis and service.
The line from the Evaporator needs replacing because it is leaking re: aluminum tubing portion under the foil wrap has corroded through. One could hear the hissing during the evacuation. (This is the first leak I’ve found after changing the Compressor. Taking it one step at a time. I am mentally preparing for the likely Evaporator and Condensor R&R’s. Ugh.)
Portion I cut away is on the failed line to be replaced so, no additional loss to me. I cut the along the outer diameter of the spring-lock connector (dorsal side of the spring) so that it separated like two rings, exposing the spring-lock and the build-up of galvanic corrosion.
Corrosion was severe. It looked like someone packed powder into the seal. The other line’s (from Compressor) flare/seat for the spring-lock was nearly entirely disintegrated so, that line will also needed changing.
PAG question: PAG 46 or PAG 100 or will either suffice ?
Thank you.
Richard Cielec
Greater Chicago Metro