Air Conditioner Pipes Routing?

Ahoy !
2002 S-Type; 4.0L v8; Naturally Aspirated; VIN#M24354

Laying on my back in the driveway, I could not determine the routing - Can someone tell me, please ? I am hoping the connexion is not inside the dashboard re: dashboard removal. Say it ain’t so, Joe.
This AC pipe: It runs from the AC Compressor, underneath car to the passenger side (RH) fender-well; along the fender-well back towards the fire wall. Along the fender-well, it is wrapped in a foil insulation; and, is secured by a steel clamp to the fender-well. During the attempt to evacuate the system, a very audible hissing was heard from along fender-well. Given the general location of the hissing, I am suspecting leakage from this pipe. But, before I dig into it, I’d like to see how arduous a task.
Where does this AC pipe connect at the firewall side ? Can it be disconnected from the engine bay or, must the dashboard be removed ?
I have not cut away the foil insulation to see if there is a connector concealed by the foil.
From the Barratts’ catalogue, I cannot determine if the pipe is P/N XR822786 or P/N XR814089. To me, they both look like they connect to the AC Compressor; although the photo of P/N XR822786 does show foil insulation.

Any comments, advice, pointers to the R&R procedure would be gratefully appreciated.


Richard Cielec
Greater metro Chicago, Illinois; U.S.A.

It looks to me like you are going to have to remove the plastic cover over the windshield wiper mechanism and also the steel cross bar under that cover.
Then you can probably see how to remove the hoses.

As with other things, you will probably find that you have to remove other things to get to the hoses.

Thank you.
Looks like the pipe attaches on the engine bay side and can be replaced without having to remove the dashboard.
Hope someone can confirm that.
If the dashboard has to be removed then, a long, hard “think” will be had.
Richard Cielec
Greater metro Chicago, Illinois U.S.A.

Hello, Mr. Reilly.
I am fully aware that what I am about to ask you will sound extremely stupid.
Can you suggest a specific brand of tool for removing the wiper arms ? Both types I have do not fit. (The Lisle barely has the reach and its jaws are too blunt to grab the arm. The Performance Tool screw-type is too small radius to allow centering the driver screw onto the wiper motor post and doesn’t give me any material I can grind away to obtain the needed radial distance). I wasted the entire afternoon of yesterday/Saturday driving around to several auto parts stores looking for a style to fit: each store carries the same non-useable style as I have. Very frustrating. Fellow in the JagTV video has a dandy puller whose make he does not mention.
You betcha’ I am feeling shame-faced stupid.
Best Regards,
Richard Cielec
Greater metro Chicago, Illinois; U.S.A.

There is no such thing as a stupid question with our Jaguars.
Occasionally there may be stupid or smart aleck answers. :grin:

First, I hope you got the plastic plug out with a knife blade.

Here is the nut which takes a 13mm socket. Hopefully you already know the whole car is metric.
Then the wiper arm is a tapered hole on a splined tapered shaft, so you just give it some thin oil and wiggle it and it should pop off.

Make a note of the angle it was at so you can put it back the same. A dirty windshield is a good marker for this. :grin:
If it is really badly corroded and stuck, maybe a battery terminal puller might work. I’ve never needed one for this.

A 2-jaw gear puller is a last resort, but put the nut back on a few turns so it can take the load rather than distorting the shaft.

It’s the puller/extractor tool that has me stumped. Yes, the arms seem to be corroded (both plastic plug were missing). Neither the Lisle tool that is made for wiper arms and battery terminals nor Performance Tool W86555 made specifically for wiper arms are adequate.
I am hoping someone can recommend a specific brand/model of tool that will work.
I’ve been soaking the arms in penetrant.
Richard Cielec
Greater metro Chicago, Illinois; U.S.A.

Ah, yes, I see the problem now. The underside of the arm is tapered or rounded, so the jaws of the terminal puller or gear puller won’t grip, are going to slip off.
Keep wiggling them I suppose. A tiny butane torch might work, but you would want to keep the flame only on the shaft, and not burn up anything else.