I have a 1988 jag xj6…has multiple alarms…1st circuit 1 failure…looked at it all fuses good…2nd bulb out but all bulbs look good and work…but pass side blinker blinks fast indicating blown bulb but all signals work, 3rd.power fluid low…i assumed power sterring but once i added some the alarm didnt go away…is this the self leveling hydraulics?..4th coolant level low…added to the overflow as thats the only place to add and still didnt go away…did notice a coolant leak tho on or around radiator area… 5th low brake pressure and i figure its the booster…i need some help removing these alarms at least the ones i can…i added.fluid to those that needed it and still the alarm…any ideas?
First off, I’d like to welcome you to Jag Mods!! This is a great forum with a whole lot of knowledge.
Is your XJ6 a Series III or an XJ40, the more modern ones like the Princess Diana road in?
The reason why I’m asking is because I’m no stranger to the Series 1 - 3 XJ6’s, but your post didn’t ring any bells with me.
If it’s an XJ40
Then this post might get a bit more attention on the XJ40 forum.
Cheers and welcome to Jag Lovers!
Mark
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Hi Alex, welcome to the forum.
It is sometimes useful to know where a lister is situated, you can add your country flag to your profile by going to your avatar at the top right of the page and go to settings.
Yes your car is a XJ40 so this is now on the correct forum.
Your Circuit 1 failure, you say the fuse look good but you need to check that there is voltage at the fuse, there are numerous posts regarding dry joints on the back of the fuse boxes.
Bulb out warning, this can be down to the style of the bulbs used also ones that are overlooked are the number plate lights, are they working?
Power fluid low, this would be the ‘green blood’ that is used in the hydraulics. You need to source the correct fluid which comes in a special bottle with the connector to add to the reservoir.
Low coolant light is the sender in the header tank. These get flaky over time and fail.
Low brake pressure is the nitrogen sphere which on the ‘88 is fitted low down in the front from memory.
The nitrogen sphere is charged to something like 600psi
The sphere for the ‘88 is a different animal from memory to the later ones so be careful that you get the correct one.
My 89 xj40 has all the same codes, let me know what you find? I just keep pushing the clear button.
Thanks …how can i tell if its a series 1 2 or 3 or like you said the xj40?
Look at my post there are some pretty good explanations…i wouldve nevwr thought of some of these
square tail lights and VIN
The XJ40 has rectangle tail lights, and the dash jets out at the bottom towards the drivers legs with switches on it
The engine is also a 4.0 6 cylinders and the series most US series 1 - 3 are 4.2 6 cylinders.
The other specific feature is the fact that you have warning codes being displayed, S1-111 didn’t have that feature. The only S111 that was concurrent with the XJ40 was the V12 model as the early 40’s could not accomodate the V engine until much later in its life.
Alex …
Lets start with the “Bulb Failure” warning on the VCM.
The fact that the passenger side turn signals blink at a faster rate than normal allows you narrow the problem down. I discovered that the warning for the turn signals are wired a little differently than the other lights. I believe this is because they are also used for the “Hazard” lights, so perhaps a safety function.
Since the turn signals are blinking at a faster rate on the passenger side first check to see is the front and rear turn lights are all operating on that side. If they are working …
… swap the two rear bulb failure modules (located in the trunk) with each other. If the faster blinking turn signal changes sides then it’s the module on that side that’s at fault. I found over the years that if
it’s a module problem it’s almost always the rear ones. These modules are notorious for suffering from cracks in the solder joints.
next … “Low coolant level”. Simply unplug the level sensor (located on the rear of the coolant tank) electrical connector. Now take a piece of wire and connect the two wires on the wire harness side connector. If the light goes out then either the fluid in the tank is low or the sensor is bad.
next … “low brake pressure”. Probably a bad pressure sphere. But again you can disconnect the electrical fitting coming from the unit and short out the harness side connector and the light should go out. As mentioned, the sphere used on the 87-89 model is different from later models and much more expensive.
Finally … “Circuit 1 failure”. You say you checked all the fuses, but did you do it visually or actually check for continuity on both ends of the fuse with a multimeter ? If you do this and they all check good then check for 12v at the power side of all the fuse holders.
I agree - when I had that problem it was due to severe corrosion in the bulb socket of the side repeater flashers on the wing.
And as suggested, always check the fuses electrically as well as visually - have had that problem too! 
Off topic but how are you and the family keeping in these trying times, Is the Twinair still buzzing along?