Alloy or classic radiator for V12?

Hi guys,

I am considering in buying new radiator for my XJ12, year 1992. There is a lot of discussion on alloy - aluminium radiators and pro and cons…

What do you think - should I stay with classic radiator for Jag or alu?

Thanks,

Cene

Search the archives, there were sometimes problems with the installation of alloy rads, fittings missing or in the wrong place etc.

I would personally go with re-coring the original radiator and use a core with wider channels.
Did that 15 years back and still works fine.

Hi Aristides, yeah - that is an option, too. So they use original one and install new core, right?

Merci, Cene

Yes correct.

All the best.

The advantage of aluminum rads is they are a lot harder to plug up. That’s because each tube is 1" rather than 1/2" (so a 2-row aluminum has roughly the same transfer surface area a 4-row copper rad). The difference in the width of each tube is likewise much larger with the aluminum.

And the common problem with the Jaguar V12 is overheating, and the common cause is the radiator getting plugged up. Sometimes it’s the insides of the tubes that get plugged up, and sometimes it’s the fins outside the tubes that get plugged up.

When people have a Jaguar V12 rad recored, they usually go with some sort of “heavy duty” core with either more rows or more fins per inch. The more rows is unnecessary, and the more fins is a really bad idea – it just makes it plug up that much quicker. If you’re gonna recore, choose the core with the fewest fins per inch you can find. It’s not a concern with an aluminum rad because they always seem to have well-spaced fins.

One other difference: If the aluminum radiator ever gets plugged up or otherwise fupped, just about the only available fix is to toss it and buy a new one. With a copper rad, you can have it boiled, you can have it rodded, or you can have it recored. And leaks can be soldered or brazed, whereas leaks on an aluminum rad require welding.

Whichever rad you get, please take my oft-ignored advice and remove it from the car every other year for cleaning. Don’t think you can get away with just hosing it off in place. It’s gotta come out.

I see - again, good advice, Kirbert!

Cheers, Cene

Had the same thought process when redoing my V12, Problem is the aluminium ones on ebay may look nice and seem good value, but will they fit, are they good quality, so you look at the makes that will fit and work and say going for a NAR aluminium rad that will set you back between £500 - 700 !!! That’s a lot, in the end I re cored my original, upgraded to three rows, yes they can get clogged up BUT i will be changing fluids every 12 - 18 months so in a classic, clogging, with the classic enthusiasts mentality, should not be a problem. The re-core did cost me £250 though, but at least I know it all fits and works…

Hi Mike, thanks for your input - I guess I will do the same, already got contact of good garage that does that things. And I will also put on the other tefba filter… got it only on left side now…

Best, Cene

FWIW on both my V12s I’ve been happy with recored original radiators.

Cheers
DD

Thanks Doug, I just returned home from a guy that does that - he said he willl do that without any problem.

By the way… I always thought the right fan blade on V12 is just mechanical…that turns when engine is on… the guy said that some Visco should be replaced and he stoped the fan with his hand… by that he was showing to me that it doesn’t work as it should. I just noded and say nothing cause I have no clue what the hell he was talking about…—:grinning:

So - that blade is not just working as belt turns it? And what is Visco??

Sorry, might be stupid question but my tech knowledge is limited…

Thanks, Cene

“Viscous” drive. Commonly known as a “fan clutch”.

Here’s a short course; there are variations.

Cheers
DD

:grinning::grinning: Thanks, Doug! Never too late to learn something, indeed.

Cheers, Cene

It seams that the viscus clutch is shot Cene.
The Hayden 2665 Standard is a direct replacement, easy to find and inexpensive.
Also if you have the yellow fan (it cracks and may disintegrate, an unhappy event at 3.000 rpm) you should replace it with the upgraded black fan. The P38 Range Rover fan is a direct replacement.

There is no thing as a stupid question, we are glad to help.
A bit of homework for you: http://www.jag-lovers.org/xj-s/book/Jaguar.html

**
The viscous clutch may fail in two ways, Cene. Either it slips too much, and the fan does not turn fast enough for adequate airflow. Or it sticks on - and the fan speed may reach very high speeds, and throw blade(s). Very destructive…

Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
**

Thanks, Aristides! Yes, I did order the yellow fan blade, too. Cracked a little on one blade.

Cheers, Cene

Frank, first option is correct… since the guy stoped the fan with hands… Now I know how the stuff work, since Doug sent me a video… vicious Viscous fan…:grinning:

1 Like

… and when it brakes it will sure ruin your day, and also the rad, the bonnet and whatever else finds on it’s way.
Get the black fan.

already on the way from Germany…

:slight_smile: :grinning: