There was and almost-equally stupid "multi -mount’ on some American POS: it escapes me now what car, but the weight of the bracket, I recall: 47 pounds!!!
True: Those 2-cylinder York compressors were a tank: good place to use a modern Sankyo.
Yes, it is. Also… the fan must be “reversed” to suck air through the alt. rather than push it through.
LLoyd
Actually, Lloyd, it is impossible to reverse the airflow direction of a centrifugal fan, unless you can figure out how to violate several laws of physics. The shape of the fan affects only its efficiency.
Are you back home from your BSOL trek?
Regards,
Ray L.
Hi Glen, are you still working with the Lucas alternator or have you upgraded to a one wire Hitchachi 60 amp? I had my Lucas rebuilt and rewired several times before the light bulb came on.
Being that the alternator is pulling its cooling air directly from the exhaust manifold and across the diodes, it does not take much for them to lose interest in the trip. The Hitachi for me and Delco’s for other members seem to be better built for this work.
The Lucas probably does better in England with a steady tire spray and cool damp air keeping them on line. 105 Deg F and a Lucas under the hood??? …, watch out for vultures. Brian / Mytype
Brian
I still have been using original Lucas 11AC of which I have two. Mine is the reverse mounted and sitting high up away from exhaust. Researching a more modern unit that is the easiest to install wiring wise. None seem to be a simple drop in.
Glenn
70E
So Glenn, where are you with this now? Did your spare 11AC solve the problem? I could not follow if it was still a problem after the “local guy” or not. Are you looking for a different brand alternator to solve the current problem or future reliability? To me, it sounds as if your intermittent charging one time, not the next could more likely be a voltage regulator or 6RA relay issue. But obviously either can fail.
Tom
Tom
Switching to my spare got me going again but at the time was only putting out 12.4 volts. I knew this alternator was a good one and had output of 14.7 a couple of months earlier. Drove 100 miles and still 12.4 volts, the next morning after siitting overnight the battery revived itself (Optima AGM) got 14.7 volts. Was fine for the rest of trip. Also had a spare 4TR with me but did not make a difference when switched out.
The 11ACs have been rebuilt too many times (surface that brushes contact very worn).
Looking for reliability that I will not have to mess with again?
Glenn
70E
Glenn,
As Ray and others suggest, moving to a different alternator may be the best resolution unless you absolutely want to stay with the 11AC for originality. I carry a spare 11AC with pulley and fan already attached so I can swap out the entire assembly and don’t have tp go through the arduous task of removing and attaching the fan and pulley to the new unit.
–Drew
One nice thing about the AC Delco unit is that it doesn’t require an impact wrench to remove the nut on the pulley. the shaft has an allen wrench fitting so it can be held in place to remove the 15/16’s nut. At Jerry’s instance I took an extra 10B unit with me on the BSol which naturally precluded the need for one, but I made sure it was clocked correctly as I took it off of my wife’s Spitwad 
Cheers,
LLynn
LLynn
Ray L had mentioned he had switched to the Delco one wire unit.
Researching it was I concerned about the having to “excite” it and
there is the question of it charging at low rpm and may need smaller pulley?
Glenn
70 E
Glenn, it sounds like you and others have not had the best luck with the 11AC. Until I am left stranded, I will be kinder to it, even if only fooling myself! Not knowing the issues with the 11AC, I have trouble with an alternator only putting out 12.4 volts. That sounds more like not putting out anything, and just reading battery voltage, or a faulty voltage regular (I see you swapped it) or wiring issue, and I have even seen batteries fail and make the charging system appear bad. I guess I am inclined to see alternators good or bad, not intermittent or partial output (although a diode failure will decrease output.) Obviously speculating here is not of significant value. If most have better luck with alternate systems, go for it.
Tom
My original 11AC has served me well for the last 47 years so can not say have not had the best of luck with it. This one may last another 20 years? My thought is to have a spare that I can take on these long trips and want something that I can easily swap out.If I could find a good 60 amp 11AC with pulley and fan would go that route. I did stop into a batteries plus and explained what had happened and they confirmed that the battery can revive itself. I never tested voltage at alternator just at battery, had I would have found output at 14.7 I believe. Sound crazy but that’s my story…
Glenn
Glenn,
What I used is a Delco 10S, which is the original ‘70s model. It is smaller, cheaper, somewhat more ubiquitous than the later, high-output models (whichi are entirely over-kill for an E-Type). While it can be wired as “single-wire”, that is not how mine is wired. The idiot light output is wired directly to the Igntion light in the speed, to provide excitation. Adequate output is NEVER a problem. It’s been on my car (and a few dozen other 3.8s I sold kits to) for 5-6 years, with ZERO problems of any kind. I’'m using the stock pulley used on the Lucas, bored out to fit the larger shaft on the Delco.
As I indicated, aside from cost and reliability, a MAJOR advantage of the 10S is you can carry a $30 kit of spare parts that would allows you to do a complete rebuild in about 20 minutes on the roadside. No need to carry a spare alternator for peace of mind (though I’ve never bothered to carry that kit myself…).
Regards,
Ray L.