And so it begins. Restoration of 1975 XJC

Do I see a Land Rover 101 in the background - shame it is an Ambo as they are a bit ungainly. I also have a 101 GS - great vehicles.

Garry

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120 minutes from car on the ground to IRS out. Not bad.

But now, I need two 19"-long brake lines male/female to connect the main brake line to the outboard calipers…

Anyone has pointers to a shop that can custom make these?

Thanks.


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Not mine. It needs a new home soon…

Well, after rummaging through old parts, and a trip to O’Reilly’s where I talked to a VERY knowledgeable fellow, TAHDAH!!

Used female fittings from a pair of pipes for front calipers and a pair of male fittings from the original rear calipers, + 2 20in 3/16 pipes from O’Reilly’s. Flaring tool worked perfectly.

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I confess that I am real sucker for assembling new parts together. This is my best experience of this hobby.

V-mounts went in with new bolts. A moment of zen.

The 48 year old V-mount was actually still in very respectable shape…





So, holes left and right, or front and back ! :slight_smile:


My opinion, front to rear (stock) location. Unless you are raising spring rates, larger sway bar, etc as a track car. Changing just one component never does much in a positive manner.

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I think we all are!

In my opinion front to back as original.
The other way around you will have greater Toe changes with suspension travel, so maybe more bump steer.
I’m sure Jaguar decided for/aft for a reason.

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Rear assembly now in place.

I got some quotes this week:

  • Shop 1: Finish body work + paint: $17,000
  • Shop 2: Finish body work, guide cost quality, ready for paint: $5,500

I am in the wrong profession…


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Meanwhile, fitted new gaskets in the HIF7s and trying some options for air filter. Why not?

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It’s looking great!
Did you start the engine? Does it requires mixture adjusting?

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With the talent that you have shown in this thread, you are more than capable of painting it yourself. The quotes you received are from people that don’t want the job. Perhaps consider a solid color and panel paint? That way panels match and more forgiving on repairs, plus cut and polish.
Summit Racing in the US has some good quality single stage urethane paints.

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Yes, and it seems to need some tuning indeed.

So the “pros” took the money and left me with a half done job. :frowning:

In particular, they did not touch the roof. Said it would be better to paint first and then use suction cups to pull out where needed.

I confess that I am not convinced and I am thinking of smearing some body filler on the top and blocking it all properly + a couple of layers of primer.



Can’t imagine why they think that’s a good idea. If you can do it then, why wouldn’t you do it now? Are you not replacing the vinyl roof?
I suspect you will struggle with anyone standing by their work unless they take it back to bare metal, which may be influencing quotes and willingness to do the job…

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I was hoping to not put a vinyl on the roof.

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Why don’t you paint it gloss black, let them take the dents out (they don’t have to make it absolutely flawless then) and then sand it back so it becomes a perfectly flat surface?

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Depend on depth of the dent’s, Eric - thick layers of filler ain’t good…

With lining removed, it should really be a simple operation to remove dents…? Looks pretty good as is though…

Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)

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There are few valid reasons to go that was: one is that the matt primer finish does not allow you to fully straighten that section. In case you do that, beware that you will NOT be able to safely cup until possibly next summer. The layers of paint take ages to fully harden. The result though can be perfect.

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Forgive my ignorance, but can’t you push them up from the inside?

How deep are they?

I wouldn’t either.

What colour are you going to paint the car?