And so it begins. Restoration of 1975 XJC


(Paul Wigton) #21

I made sure the surfaces were squeaky clean, then used a thin and even coat of RTV (I did this on a lot of XKs, and otger engines).

I then installed the bolts only finger tight, then let it all set up over 24 hours, then tightened down the bolts.

The suggestion of epoxying the 4 clamp-downbolts, Cometic head and cam gaskets, plus other tricks makes for a virtually leak-free engine. There might be a few tiny seeps, but better than stock.


(Eric Feron) #22

I was thinking of replacing the studs that hold the timing chain cover to the c/head (2) and the sump (2) with actual bolts to be able to take the cover off again if needed, without having to remove the c/head. Does that make sense?


(Paul Wigton) #23

Others have reported doing so: Id see no problem doing so…except it wouldnt be factory:grimacing:


(Frank Andersen) #24

**
For sure, Paul…

…my apprehension was sealants - which poses a problem for later disassembly…:slight_smile:

Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
**


(Ian) #25

Tacho drive is on the inlet side on MK2’s


(Frank Andersen) #26

**
Considering that tacho generators were not used on the SIII, Eric - no wonder…:slight_smile:

Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
**


(Ian) #27

Your head may have the 2 plugs in the back 33 and 36 in the diagram


(Paul Wigton) #28

Hylomar/ RTV pose no issue on disaasembly: the only one I know of that does is the old, gooey brown Permatex!


(Eric Feron) #29

Pistons are now out. Shells and crankshaft journals seem rather nice. No ridge at the top of the cylinder bores. Distributor drive nicely right, very little scoring on the timing chain tensioners. So far so good.


(Paul) #30

It looks very good from here…


(Frank Andersen) #31

**
Indeed, Eric - but the bearing shown show some blemishes…?

Frank
xj6 85 Sov Euope (UK/NZ)
**


(Eric Feron) #32

They do. Also the shells are marked. So grinding is needed.


(Lovell) #33

Greetings All,

I’ll be watching this as I have a XJ12C. Mine runs but been stored, though it had been a parts car that gave up its rear window motors before its owner sold it.

If you are going to keep it basically stock, good for you.

I’d recommend a John’s Cars transmission swap with OD for it, but if you are happy, don’t worry.


(Eric Feron) #34

Yes, I have the John’s Quarterbreed kit and GM box waiting patiently on the shelves… :slight_smile:


(Paul Wigton) #35

Keep those chain rails!!! Unless you can get genyoowine Jaguar ones, used OE is better than new replacements.


(Lovell) #36

Yes, I didn’t want to name the kit, figured I would get an earful on just the name.

I used BowTie overdrives to purchase a transmission that was rebuilt and set up for what I was doing.

Spent some time fabricating a different snail guide to match the new plate that replaced the original indicator. It shows the right sequence of gears along with putting the pointer in the right place. It’s a MKIX.

Just make sure you follow the setup on those.


(Lovell) #37

So are thevoriginsl splined cam sprockets, IF they are the full circumference versions.


(Eric Feron) #38

OK, so reuse the original cam sprockets and chain guides, gotcha.

What does “snail guide to match the new plate that replaced the original indicator.” mean? I dont follow?
I already have the transmission, it came with the adpator kit, I gought everything second hand.


(Eric Feron) #39

Any pistons experts? They are all like this. They sem sufficiently worn to me to justify getting new ones. Thoughts and advice?

Thank you.


(Paul Breen pay palled it) #40

I would and have for all the other time and expense. Paul