I made sure the surfaces were squeaky clean, then used a thin and even coat of RTV (I did this on a lot of XKs, and otger engines).
I then installed the bolts only finger tight, then let it all set up over 24 hours, then tightened down the bolts.
The suggestion of epoxying the 4 clamp-downbolts, Cometic head and cam gaskets, plus other tricks makes for a virtually leak-free engine. There might be a few tiny seeps, but better than stock.
I was thinking of replacing the studs that hold the timing chain cover to the c/head (2) and the sump (2) with actual bolts to be able to take the cover off again if needed, without having to remove the c/head. Does that make sense?
Pistons are now out. Shells and crankshaft journals seem rather nice. No ridge at the top of the cylinder bores. Distributor drive nicely right, very little scoring on the timing chain tensioners. So far so good.
I’ll be watching this as I have a XJ12C. Mine runs but been stored, though it had been a parts car that gave up its rear window motors before its owner sold it.
If you are going to keep it basically stock, good for you.
I’d recommend a John’s Cars transmission swap with OD for it, but if you are happy, don’t worry.
Yes, I didn’t want to name the kit, figured I would get an earful on just the name.
I used BowTie overdrives to purchase a transmission that was rebuilt and set up for what I was doing.
Spent some time fabricating a different snail guide to match the new plate that replaced the original indicator. It shows the right sequence of gears along with putting the pointer in the right place. It’s a MKIX.
OK, so reuse the original cam sprockets and chain guides, gotcha.
What does “snail guide to match the new plate that replaced the original indicator.” mean? I dont follow?
I already have the transmission, it came with the adpator kit, I gought everything second hand.