Hmm, in that case its different from XK120 and I’m not sure my screws are going to be the same as for yours. I have 4 screws in each side holding the 9 and 13 to the fender pod, and they go into threaded sockets that are welded to the inside of the pod, sometimes called a tee nut. The original thread is probably #3 BA but I put in #6-32 UNC x 1/2" binder head screws which are close enough.
Nope, mine are definitely different.
The 8 holes are somewhat large, like they hold t-nuts similar to ones that hold the cover panel above the shocks:
Else, I suspect it’s something like this doohickey:
:
I need to have the windshield trim pieces re-chromed.
Does anyone have a recommendation for a shop - Hopefully within an hours drive of DC ?
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Hi D. Serber,
That spring loaded hook looks to be a latch for your gas cap door. My MK 9’s, made in the same period as your XK-150 have the same latch, so I am guessing it was shared on your car, as Jaguar tended to do across models.
Thanks for the info TB, that’s good to know. Sounds logical.
I know it was on the car somewhere as you can see the obvious paint marks, and the same primer color the car is now.
If it was for the fuel door, it probably can’t go back on. The whole fuel filler box has been replaced and there is no provision for that hook on the new piece.
You are correct !!!
I found a photo of the car and you can just see the tip of the hook inside the fuel box. You’d have to be looking for it though, or you’d never see it. So thanks for the tip !!!
Now the question is was that part original as SNG shows an entirely different kind of latch mechanism.
I wouldn’t trust that SNG shows every variation of parts.
Always go with the SPC first.
For instance, there seem to have been 3 different petrol filler boxes on 150.
I don’t know if this is what you have.
Hmmm, not sure. Without a photo, I don’t think there’s any way to tell for sure. The one point that reinforced throughout Porter’s books is how much change there was in late 1958.
Although there’s no way to know if that particular part was ever swapped out, I’m fairly confident it is original. With the exception of some bits around the engine, the car was unmolested. In a way, it was good fortune that the engine seized early on, it helped keep the car from being modified over the years.
In the end, I’m just thrilled to know where it goes, and that having bought the car in boxes, I have the part at all. Kudos to TBrady312 !!
OK, on to the next issue:
With the eventual end of the local stay-at-home order, I need to pick up where I left off and get the car shipped. As you can see in the photos at the top of this thread, it is non-running and in storage in southern California. I usually use Intercity to transport all my cars, but their trucks are huge and can’t get all the way to my garage. I’m happy to use them again, but would still need to arrange for the last mile separately. And the last 100 yards is up an L-shaped alley/driveway. Any advice or experience with this kind of situation??
Assuming the steering works, the tires hold air and the last 100 yards are uphill, I’d tow it with a strap. I’m assuming the brakes will be non functional, so uphill only.
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Correct, the steering works, but no seats (or interior), just a milk crate to sit on. Tires do hold air, but there are no brakes whatsoever. Your idea may work, but the truck may still drop the car a 1/4 mile from the alleyway.
I may have to have a flatbed take it the last mile.
If you have a vehicle with a tow ball you could rent one of those two wheeled car dollies.
Oh, now that’s an idea. Just might do the trick. And give my old Landy a workout. That and the flatbed give me two options now. Thanks for that.
The other half arrived this week (the half not in boxes):
Now I’ll have more bits to work on over the winter while the body is being painted.
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Looks like a good solid start.
So after the car arrived, I read every post about engine removal I could find. I decided to take the engine and transmission out the top. While I was able to remove it by myself, it did require the removal of the balancer and the transmission top cover. I ended up leaving the rear engine mounts attached to the engine brackets as there was no way to get a wrench on the big bolts. Two other bits of kit that were helpful were an Oberg Tilt-Lift and engine brackets from an XJ6. They are much thinner than those on a MKII. Curiously, I could not remove the rear exhaust manifold with the engine in place. It bumped up against the firewall until the engine came forward.
The body has now been sent off to for painting, so I’ll work on all the bits I removed while I wait: brakes, clutch cylinders, dash components, electrical bits, etc.
First up will be making sure the engine was rebuilt properly.
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Please could you show a close up of the brown colour of the oil filter housing, A lot of discussion regarding the original colour has taken place and yours looks to be original.
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Sure, I’ll take a photo this evening, but I believe it’s been repainted.
Thanks Killer. looks very close to the original colour.
M