The problem is, like many others before me, the tach does not work, at all. Below are all the facts on what I think (hope) you need to know to help me.
Yes, I have read many previous posts on the subject.
I have a '69 2+2 fully restored car that was a project car missing at least half the parts
New wiring harness end to end
Flamethrower coil at 3.0 amps using contact points with no ballast resistor
On engine start up a few months ago it did work, then stopped
I have a spare tach (assume it works) and it also does not work. What are the chances of two of them not working
My tach has the looped white wire must be in side, on my spare it is on the out side
It is wired up according to my wiring schematic There is a green and white wire from fuse #7 to tach via the plug and a white wire taking power to feed the coil
Any suggestions on trouble shooting it would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Pat
The electrolytic capacitor inside goes bad. If you take it apart, replace with a similar value of at least the same or greater voltage rating. Pay attention to polarity.
Thanks! But Iâm afraid I have not a clue as to what a electrolytic capacitor is, or what it even looks like. Any chance of a photo and perhaps direction on what to do/look for?
Thanks,Pat
Does your car run even though the tach doesnât work? If it does run it would seem that the problem is nothing to do with the wiring, the signal feed to the tack through the loop. If the carsâ wiring to the tach was bad, the car wouldnât run as the ignition circuit runs through the white wire loop.
An option is to send the tach to Mike Eck for conversion to a modern electronic unit. He did my clock and the tach for a very fair price. Highly recommended.
I did the same as well! And had the same problem with learning Morse Code. My wife on the other hand was a signalman in the Navy and was proficient in that, signal flags and light. Just one of the areas where she excels me. And I admit thatđ±
The white wire loop is the primary of a current transformer. It makes a difference which end of the loop is connected to Ignition +12V and which end goes to the coil.
Itâs possible for the coil to get its 12V via a path that doesnât include the white wire loop. This can happen if the wire from the starting relay that was intended to bypass a ballast resistor (which doesnât now exist) is incorrectly connected. You would have more than one wire to the coil + terminal in this case. To check, the car should not start if you unplug the 3 wire tach connector. IMHO.
I was just at out local electronics type store and they kindly tested that capacitor do-dad and they said it was not happy. Surprisingly they had one in stock, and are kindly going to solder it on for me.
Pat
Each of us are surrounded by thousands of electrolytic capacitors. They are in basically every electronic device. Car, smart phone, appliance, TV, radios, computers, Phones. If it plugs in the wall, there is likely an electrolytic capacitor/s inside. Heat and time kills them. Be glad you got 50 years out of the one in your Tach.
