Ok so yes I have searched, and yes I have read and watched videos, and yes I think I can do it myself. However, how important is it to use dial gauges? Ok so my issue with my 93 xks convertible is that I started feeling a shake and thought maybe I had a flat spot in the tire from it sitting for a little bit. I jacked it up when it didn’t go away and sure enough both rear wheels have up and down and side to side play. I thought “but my rear was rebuilt a couple thousand miles before I bought it”. Of course I looked at the paper and saw that the jag shop “reshimmed the bearings”. Drrrrrrr! So that does away with the “just put in new bearings with the original shims” line of thinking. I called my local English motors shop and they told me that they can do it, but it depending on how much trouble they have getting it right, labor could talley up quickly. Is there anything else that could cause the play? You barely have to push for it them to wiggle, and it’s the same feel on both sides. Oh and my lugs and Jesus nuts are tight
Side to side play is wheel bearings.
Mind you that they could have been set with end-float in the factory so some play could be normal.
To set and test the bearing’s end-float or pre-load you will have to also dismount the half shafts.
Up and down could be wheal bearings, U-joints, output shaft bearings or all the above combined. Better check before you start.
on my channel YouTube Jag Mods I’m rebuilding an IRS from start to finish (I’m not finished yet, but have covered rebuilding the hubs. A dial indicator is the only way to quantify any end float. The hub has a couple of tapered bearings pressed on which more or less hold the hub inside the carrier (the big aluminum bit), with a “shim” for lack of a better term, thick (as shims go) metal ring percision ground that gets sandwiched between inner bearing and the grease seal ring. This metal ring come in a bout 10 different sizes. the size ring is determined by how much space is between the inner hub bearing and the grease seal sealing ring. this shim establishes the preload on the hub bearings.
It’s really hard to put this into words. to get this right, You will need a dial indicator or a depth micrometer in order to figure out what size of shim you’ll need to get the preload right.
The procedure outlined in the previous posts is per the ROM and the only way I know of to get the end float right. It’s a fair bit of work, I just did it when swapping my diff.
Have you eliminated other possible causes of vibration? Wheel balance, driveline balance, all suspension components that should be tight are tight, etc?
I must admit that when I felt and saw how easily wobbled both wheels were I kinda stopped there. Partially because of working on my xk8.