Another SLS Delete Question

hi all, I wonder if someone could answer a question for me.

I am looking to delete the SLS on my 90 Daimler Sov.
I understand there is a conversion kit, mainly made up of parts to compensate for the difference of the Strut makeup between SLS and Non SLS cars.
My question is, if I buy a full Non SLS strut including turret etc, wont this just slide right in without the need for the conversion kit ? Or is the control arm and upper mount so different it wouldnt possibly fit ?


Rob … unbelievable I think you’re the first person I’ve heard of that wants to swap out their self leveling assembly … NOT :smiley: just a bit of comedy there. Actually this is probably the most common modification on the XJ40.

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You’ll need the squishy parts #5, #11, and #12. You’ll of course need new springs (part # 1) because the SLS springs are too soft for the conversion. Also there is a small difference in the top hat, #6. The hole in the top is a bit smaller in the non-SLS set up and if you use the old top hat the upper part of the shock will move around too much and quickly wear out the bushing. If you can find a cheap used set of correct top hats that would be great because new ones can be a bit pricey. I have heard of people welding in a smaller hole.

No other modification of control arms or anything else are required…Hope this helps.

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thanks folks, I have the opportunity to buy the full strut unit with reasonably new shocks in for small money. From what I understand here I can simply remove the old strut and replace with the salvaged one without having to rebuild the whole unit or modify it.


Rob …

   "can I simply remove the old strut and replace with the salvaged one without having to rebuild the    
    whole unit or modify it."

The answer is yes, the non-SLS assembly is interchangeable with the SLS assembly and will bolt right in.

That being said you can’t really tell if the bushings on your replacement assemblies are worn out unless you take them apart. Also you want to make sure that they have the correct non-SLS springs. I would strongly suggest you disassembly the used assemblies and check the 3 bushings on each one. It will be very obvious if they need to be replaced and they’re not that expensive to replace.

It’ll break your heart if you go to all the trouble of installing the used units and you hear them rattling around because of worn out bushings, and they do tend to wear out.

totally makes sense - thank you !

Replacing the struts can be done in an hour if you take care to note how they come out. Its a bit of a fiddle to wrangle them out between the arm and the brake rotor backing plate from memory, its a long time since I replaced the top bushes on mine.

Rob …

A few tips on doing this job.

-You’ll need a floor jack to raise the car so you can remove the wheel.

-Jack up the lower arm and compress the spring before you remove the 4 bolts securing the assembly to the car. Then lower the assembly and remove the large bottom bolt connecting the shock.

-Before you remove the assembly make a scratch or use a dab of paint to determine the correct orientation for reassembly.

-When reinstalling the assembly slide in the large lower bolt and then compress the spring and line up the holes by inserting a short metal rod or the smooth end of a drill bit before installing the bolts.

-The smart move is to chase the threads of the 4 holes to clean them up before you put the assembly back in. Clean up the old bolts or better yet buy new ones. You do not want to strip the nuts !! I purchased new bolts that were about 1/2" longer and ground off the treads on the first 1/2" to help me starting the bolts without stripping one. Ignore these steps at your own peril.