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This only verifies some action, Mark, but it tells nothing of spark quality - which must be verified by an actual spare spark plug observation…
An iffy ign amp may cause weak sparking - it should be strong and blue. If it is strong and blue; the ign is working as it should - and a non-runner is not caused by ign failure. However, a weak, yellow spark may or may not run the engine - but verifying spark quality is still a part of non-runner checks…
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
**
Ok, i will check, i just got back from the storage unit and picked up a couple of coils. One is an MSD, the other a factory lucas.
I will check the spark quality, i also have 3 sets of plugs, that I will try too.
Sent from my BlackBerry 10 smartphone on the Verizon Wireless 4G LTE network.
Status update.
Installed the MSD coil with the factory ballast because the ballast that came with the coil didn’t have enough connections and I didn’t feel like making one. Also the factory ballast had a resistance of .5 ohms where as the ballast that came with the MSD coil has a resistance of 1.5 ohms. I couldn’t find in my documentation what the appropriate resistance should be so defaulted to factory.
Replaced the plugs - they were all wet.
Once again Frank was right. The timing light does not indicate there is fire in the hole. Just a good indication that there’s some electricity dancing down the HT Lead. thank you once again Frank for keeping me focused in the right direction
After the first Drive what did I discover?
I’ve had this not so wonderful example of a XJ6 for nearly 10 months, and this is the first time I actually fired it up. So what’s left?
Doug, Frank, David, & Carl Thank you so much for your guidance.
Mark
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While the CE ignition system works well with most coils, Mark - there are vague indications that the AB14 ignite, or rather the module inside is vulnerable to high coil currents…
While coil current is mainly restricted by coil impedance, and the coil resistance in itself is not ‘best’ indicator of current control - the general rule of thumb is to use coils with resistance between 1 and 2 ohms.
I don’t like using ‘high performance’ coils with the CE system. It is not necessary, so adding an external resistor, as you have done to your ‘0,5 ohm’, is 'prudent. However, resistors do reduce the coil current and spark quality - so you are not necessarily better of than with a ‘standard’ coil…
Additional comments to you your other points raised.
*The ‘squishy’ brake pedal may be due to air in the system - typical for this is that pumping the pedal will firm it up. If so; airing the system is of course the first step. If the pedal keeps sinking when held; there is a leak to be found - and if fluid leve gradually drops; the leak is external.
If not; it may indeed be the master cylinder. But if the pedal goes half way down on application, and wont; rise you have lost one brake circuit. Which may or may not be external or the master cylinder…
*Hard starting can be pursued along different lines - but there is no reason to live with it…
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
**
I put the rear end up in the air yesterday, and at first glance all of the pieces are in place all 4 shocks are there. still no give in the rear suspension, and the ride height appears to be a bit low; I haven’t measured it yet to know for sure, but at a glance then negative camber is a good indication. When I go over the slightest imperfection (like a dip or man hole cover) in the road surface, the front of the car absorbs the imperfection while the back of the car doesn’t with a spine compressing jar. I haven’t experienced this one yet. Always something new to learn with these cars.
I’m pretty sure the front end rattle is a timing chain. I hope it’s not stretched; and I hope it’s the upper and not the lower.
The brake pedal goes almost al the way to the floor; pumping has no effect on the pedal position. that’s why I’m thinking it’s the master cyl.
I"m not really sure if the MSD coil I’m using is any better than an OE coil, other than better constructed. it is to some degree a bit thicker in girth; if the rule of thumb is 1 or two ohms, then I should use the ballast that came with the coil. Though at this stage of the game, The ignition system isn’t really the top priority; I’d say checking the chain tension is.
Keep you posted
Mark
Mark,
the way you describe it it shouldn’t have anything to do with the shocks, but with the springs: Either someone has mounted way too stiff springs or some kind of blockage even prevents the springs from taking any load.
Can you manipulate the rear springs, say bounce the car when pressing on the rear wing or bumper?
Good luck
Jochen
75 XJ6L 4.2 auto (UK spec)
**
A PO may have fitted very stiff shocks, Mark - have you tried the standard ‘bouncing’ check. There should certainly be suspension movement. Chocks basically reacts to rate of change of suspension movement, the quicker the wheel movement the more they resist. The ‘stiffness’ of the shocks reflects this - but no movement is excessive…
The ride height is measured from the underside of the cross member to ground - 189 mm +/-6,4 mm, equal on both sides (remember 'rollout to settle the suspension before measuring). Theoretically, the springs may have sagged to the extent that the shocks are bottomed out, giving no movement. Or the shocks are ‘frozen’ - though I have never heard about either…
Ride height relates to springs - ride quality to the shocks. So if you are dissatisfied with the latter; focus on shocks…
The brake problem as described is almost certainly due to the master cylinder - but an external look for leaks, and verification of reservoir fluid level is a normal precaution…
And you are right; cam chain should have priority - ignition problems can be pursued at leisure if necessary…
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
**
I have tried the bounce check, but I’ve got my suspicions that there’s more going on here. I tried to put gas in the vehicle, and it would take only a couple of gallons. I got home and peeked in the tank, and it does register full, but I only put a couple of gallons in. I’m thinking the there’s something other than gas in the tank.
That being said, how does one get the plug under the petrol tank drain without breaking it? It looks like plastic and it appears to be a bit fragile. this is my first XJ that has the plug still there.
-Maybe your sending unit is faulty, maybe it was stuck on empty and now loosened, maybe the connection is bad. When the tank is empty (If you want to drain it, use the fuel pump first!) remove the taillight, remove the thing. For the drain plug, either remove the panel or cut it out or try to push it aside somehow; it is some kind of foam or rubber. Do the shocks compress at all? could they be frozen stiff?
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But does the suspension move down at all when ‘bouncing’, Mark…?
You should check ride height for sure - the suspension may rest on, or be very close to, the bump stops due to excessive spring sag…
Ride height should indeed be checked with full tanks; ‘roll out’ to settle suspension - depress on bumper, lift, and slowly release…
If you cannot getting any more fuel into the tank - it is physically full. What it is full of is of course another matter - the floats relating to the tank units floats on any liquid, though designed for petrol. Which is lighter than water, so petrol is on top…
Tank units are not completely reliable - and readings over time with various known amounts of fuel is a diagnostic tool. If the gauge constantly reads above ‘full’ there is an electric short - reading constant ‘empty’ means a connection break. Either requires access to the units by removing the tail light clusters for further wire checks…
As water in the tanks will gravitate to the bottom, where the pick-up is; with a lot of water the pump will feed that to the engine. Which is why the drain plugs are where they are, at the lowest part of the tank - and removing the plugs flushes the sludge sump…
However, as David says; attempt of draining a full tank is not recommended - there is 12 US gallons to be collected, and it will gush. Draining the tank with the fuel pump, collected via the fuel rail hose, has the same demands on collection capacity - and the fuel pump delivers 100 psi of pressure…
In any case; before or later you will have to open the drain plugs, in car or out of it. Open the small one first to completely empty the tank, then the larger one. They ‘usually’ give with little protest…
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
**
Pump flow can be stopped easily. I collected the old gas, let the goo settle and incrementally fed the other car with the good part. The dirtier fuel I was not comfortable with now sees infrequent use as degreaser.
Clamping the hose for the tank, connecting a hose there and siphoning out is much better though because sucking rust is guaranteed to kill the fuel pump.
If you pull the sending units make sure to check the condition of the positive wire and if needed resolder that thing more rigidly; mine were totally corroded and eventually failed. Get at least one gasket as spare, so might as well buy two, but mine held up.
Frank, we all know that pressure and flow are related; depressurized fuel system, add container, jump relay and the fuel will run out in a nice stream that‘ll resort to dribbling immediately when the pump stops. A car in neutral can’t harm you, but give the engine something to work against makes it do something. Don’t restrict the flow; nothing happens.
And I advise buying the socks that go over the suction tube above the drain plug. They won’t look nice anymore.
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Agreed, David…
Securely connected it is much safer - loose fuel is a fire hazard, and draining a full tank by the drain plugs is sometimes a scary experience. Though some control can be exerted by manipulating with the filler lid…
If the pump is used on EFI, the filler lid should be open - in case tank venting is faulty. And indeed; both fuel hoses from the tanks to the changeover valve should be clamped before disconnection - a faulty changeover valve might otherwise cause consternation…
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
**
Right. So full tank service should be:
Have many fire extinguishers grouped around you and your exit path
Do not alarm the neighbors
Remove taillight
Remove rubber protection below drain plugs
Clamp both fuel hoses
Depressurize fuel system by running engine with pump disconnected
Find 13 gal of containers
Connect hose to the large hose from the tank
Open fuel filler
Remove clamp, drain tank
Remove small drain plug
Remove large drain plug
Change the sock above drain plug
Flush tank a little
Change gaskets
Close filler flap
Remove fuel level indicators, drain floats and re-weld, check condition, refit with new gaskets and put everything back together
Take a deep breath of fresh air because you will be very high by then.
Change fuel filter while you’re in there and do the hoses altogether if they need it. I had three leaking hoses in the trunk.
Skip steps you deem unnecessary.
Mark,
nothing to be added to Frank’s and David’s instructions. I’d simply stress the undertone of their advice: you might be safer to leave all of the tank plumbing intact as long as there is a substantial amount of fuel in the tank.
Simple hand pumps can be had for a few €, $, CHF … Use three feet of surplus fuel safe tube, such a pump, maybe a filter and sufficient fuel containers, feed the tube into the tank from the filler cap, arrange the filter over a fuel container, take a seat and start pumping. As soon as the fuel in the tube has reached a level below the tank level it will continue to run, so be prepared to raise it sufficiently when changing your containers. Once the fuel tank is empty, you open the plumbing behind the T-valve and replace the fuel line leading to the offending tank with a fully blocked piece of fuel line to avoid any subsequent cross feeding. Then you may address the drain plug, filter sock etc. just as described - just keep your respect towards fuel fumes still in the tank …
Good luck
Jochen
75 XJ6L 4.2 auto (UK spec)
**
It sure is comprehensive, David. But I would differentiate between draining of the tanks, the remedial actions pending tank inspections - and addressing the gauge/tank unit issues as three separate issues…
The first should include examination of residual fuel when the drain plugs are finally removed - to assess type of contamination - as part of diagnosis…
The tank inspections, and eventual tank ‘washout’ includes removal of the tank units. Serious tank corrosion may require tank refurbishing.
The faulty fuel level readings can be addressed at some leisure - during or after the other work…
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
**
I disagree, Frank. It is better to do everything at once, it’s not exactly hard work. Do it right or just drain a tank and see if it helps, I’ve done everything individually and would adress everything at once next time.
I would never remove the tanks if they are still tight. Just get the rust out, with already stale fuel
The hand pump might be practical, or a siphoning hose with those little pumps to start by hand. Or you accept the taste, what you need to know is that the pump pickup works good for draning.
**
Of course you are right, David…
But in days of yore when I had two very used cars that had to be ready to roll every morning without fail, and a tight budget - I separated the tasks into parts. The ones absolutely necessary to get the car safely back on the road first - then the others as time permitted.
With time and money readily available, I’d do it your way - but I still prefer to know which operation is integral to a specific issue. It reduces distractions during work - and old habits die hard…
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
**
**
Frank,
This is where I’m at. Limited financial resources, and the need for transportation. Ugh!
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In which case, Mark - you need a running engine to get the car rolling…
Going through the various tests DIY cost little, but inevitably may take time. Where you are at is the starting point for priorities…so…?
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
**
Frank
First priority fix the valve timing. I’ve got timing chain slop on the intake side. I spent all day on Sunday looking for my cam timing tool, but never did find it. I had to order a replacement. This will defiantly help reliability. the compression is 160 straight across the board. which I have to say was a bit surprising considering the car has 139k on the clock.
IRS - clunk
IFS - worn out
gas tanks - I’ll probably do these one side at time. So I have something to drive between.
Then what ever else pops up. I guess