There are some videos showing fuel pump and fuel filter replacing using compatible pump and filter to save money. Any thoughts on this and which filters and pumps are compatible and where do you get them?
Chris
What year, model, and engine?
Cheers
DD
1983 xj6 and 1987 xj6. Sorry Doug, I should have included this.
Chris
Oh absolutely ā¦
you will need a āhigh pressureā one, however there are also those for carbs (low pressure).
I donāt know where you are, but in the US they can be had on e b a y for nothingā¦$30 or so.
It is a common unit used on many other makes, VW, Porsche, etc.
The internet is a godsendā¦
I had both a S3 and now a S1 with carbs, used generic on both without troubles.
A quick search for filters and your year model on e b a y will reveal many options and give you info and right directionā¦e.g.
Thank you very much, Demian, for this information. And congratulations on
your new/old s1 xj!
Chris
Hahā¦thank youā¦and youāre welcome.
But I wonder what Iāve gotten myself into sometimes.
These cars are rare and hard to find so I tolerate what must be done.
Always nice to have modern stuff. The S3 is a great car.
And parts are so crazy cheap.
Just go over her from front to back, take nothing for granted as if nothing had been done before you.
I donāt know where you are, but WalMart (of all places) sells large 4-5 quart oil jugs for cheaper than anywhere else.
They have brand name 20/50 and high mileage stuff, but those in the know and Jaguar / Rolls Royce clubs recommend the ones for diesel cars.
Better for older cars and resist breakdown better.Canāt recall details of their argument, but it wasnāt typical forum claptrap, I was convinced and would do sameā¦
ALSO ā¦ on older cars yours and even XJ40 and earlier ā¦ ethanol fuels today are horrible for our cars. They prematurely dry up hoses and and are bad for injectors, seals, lack of lube at combustion.
The Rolls Royce Club and others ALL advise to put a shot of 2 stroke oil in with a fill up at least occasionallyā¦or add some marvel mystery oil.
Canāt recall details as Iām not at that point yet, but do a search. Worth the effort.
Flush out everything, replace every fluid, etc. Keep it clean inside engine bay. Clean connectors, connections, use that electrical grease goop to protect against corrosionā¦etc.
Just keep her clean and keep up on maintenance and you will never have any trouble.
Having had Jaguars all my life, preventative maintenance is my mantra.
Never failed me these cars, never. as a result.
With Jaguars from the 50s to 90sā¦
Take car and have fun.
Great advice on the MMO. About 1/4 pint per gas fill-up should work. Too much wonāt hurt, just ignore the smoke.
I have an S2 coupe but only because they did not make an S1 coupe.
Phillip
I very much enjoyed your last email, Demian. And again, thank you very much
for your response.
Chris
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Whatever the āageā of a car, Phillip - the liquids used should simply comply with original specifications. Additives professing to do something specific should be treated with scepticism; there are no miracle cures. At best, they will do no harm - except to your walletā¦
It is not wrong to use thicker oil to compensate for engine wear, expressed by failing oil pressure - otherwise, donāt bother. Adding something does not remove the original problem, there is no scientific evidence that they do any good. If there was; reputable car manufacturers would use it - and oil companies would add it. There is some problems with alcohol in fuel, but the damage is to some fuel system part, not to the engine - and adding anything will not remove the alcohol or the damage it may cause. And alcohol will not damage enginesā¦
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
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Personally I think that E10 gasoline has become an all-too-convenient whipping postā¦summarily blamed for any for any fuel system problem that comes along. In my neck oā the woods E10 has been standard issue for over 20 years and I havenāt had any problems with it. Or, at bare minimum, I havenāt had any problems that can be definitively attributed to it.
This can be a highly contentious topic so I wonāt belabor it. The most gracious (and accurate) exit is probably tp say āExperiences varyā and leave it at that
Cheers
DD
`They have brand name 20/50 and high mileage stuff, but those in the know and Jaguar / Rolls Royce clubs recommend the ones for diesel cars.
Better for older cars and resist breakdown better.Canāt recall details of their argument, but it wasnāt typical forum claptrap, I was convinced and would do sameā¦`
My engine rebuilder on my Triumph recommended Rotella diesel engine oilā¦ His justification was it still contained ZDDP.
ZDDP helped prevent wear on older engines especially camshaft and tappets and was a great break in oil. This was a number of years agoā¦and I have since heard that emission changes on diesels have also caused the removal of the ZDDPā¦admittedly I have not checked this out. The alternate offered was to use synthetic race oil which still contained ZDDP.
Cheers
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I do so agree, Doug - there might have been issues initially, until vulnerable parts were changed in response, but that is likely fixed long agoā¦
that alcohol contains less āenergeticā is neither here nor there - oil companies would quickly go out of business if they made wholesale destructions to customersā enginesā¦
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
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Certainly, Gary - one of the compounds that does work, but not necessarily required for engine healthā¦and oil companies are chary about revealing allā¦
It is sort of reminiscent of leaded petrol issue - great stuff for its purpose, but we learned to do without. And Jaguar engines are not frailā¦
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
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Iām not aware of ZDDP being totally eliminated but I havenāt visited the subject recently. But, if nothing else, the ZDDP content has been steadily reduced over the last 15-17 years.
The old oils generally had a ZDDP content of about 1200-1500 ppm. Last time I checked (years ago, admittedly) the latest oils were down to about 600 ppm. Nowadays it is fairly well accepted that CJ-4 specification oil (which is actually a commercial/diesel spec) has enough ZDDP to assuage the worries of those owning older cars. Plus, numerous companies are marketing specialty oils with high ZDDP levels, and ZDDP additives are readily available.
Iāve always been skeptical as to how well-founded our worries really are. The initial ZDDP flap arose 15-20 years ago when some engine builders faced catastrophic engine failures on initial start-up of flat-tappet V8 engines. Some owners of high-performance engines with very high valve spring pressures suffered the same. All attributed, apparently correctly, to low ZDDP. Very real, but very isolated instances in the grand scheme of things. Meanwhile millions of us, knowingly or unknowingly, were using the newer, lower ZDDP oils without a care in the world and suffering no tangible ill-results.
I say ātangible ill-resultsā because any increased wear that might occur from the lower ZDDP content is something that most of us will never discover. Will the engine need overhaul at 160k miles rather than 175k miles, as a result of lower ZDDP? Who knows? What does it really mean to us? How will an individual owner measure and track this wear? Itās a bit academic unless you own a fleet of trucks or taxi-cabs where āMean Time Before Overhaulā (or whatever the terminology is !) is a critical aspect of your cost control.
Ramble switch turned āoffā
Cheers
DD .
Frank,
Food for thought.
Phillip
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Very good video, Phillip - I sure enjoyed itā¦
Having been around cars for donkeysā years and seen them come and go; Iām more interested in āwhyā an additive works. Sure, if they work, fine, but as a variety of faults may have entirely different causes - it is not given that an additive works on all. Or even some; sometimes the claims made by manufacturers are simply scientific nonsense. Though adding sawdust to quell a noisy engine was scientifically sound - the consequences were still predicable, but the additive did quieten the noise, as promisedā¦
ā¦which is why Iām sceptical to additive promises; and remain soā¦
Incidentally; your oil pressure seems well within limits - and on the xk, excessive oil pressure is deliberately bled off by a pressure relief valve. Increased pump capacity will of course compensate for pressure loss due to bearing wear etc - and itās better than running with too low pressure.
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
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Keep the ramble switch āonā Doug - elucidating, and saves me doing the same rambleā¦
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
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Glad you enjoyed it Frank. Made by a nice American āBubbaā. If you click on the āU Tubeā icon at the bottom of the screen youāll pull up a lot more videos about this issue. Thereās even one by Jay Leno thatās very interesting.
I may make a video myself. Title: āHow To Screw up A Perfectly Good Car and Blame My Toolsā.
Keep up the good work.
Phillip