Thanks very much guys. Sounds like I have the correct support plate which makes me happy. I do not have the square spacers which should help. For some reason the peg is not popping through the bush as can be seen in Ian’s photo. I currently have the 420 spring (4.5" long) installed - I tried the 3.8S spring which is only 3" long but it was definitely too soft / low. I will make sure the spring is sitting properly and also make sure the stabilizer is not set too high. I’ll let you know how I make out, cheers.
Anyone know the thickness of the four rectangular spacer blocks (#90 in Jason’s MK2 support diagram)? I have this gearbox support bracket but wasn’t able to get the spacer blocks with it.
I finally got my engine back yesterday but am still a ways away from mounting it and gearbox in the car. Since I’m also doing the auto to manual conversion will be helpful to understand how others have handled any fit-up issues. I have most of the parts that I need at this point and have the pedal box ready to go, but tunnel cutting and other fine details are in the not too distant future.
My newly rebuilt engine will patiently await the rest of the car now. Was the other way around as it’s been at my local rebuilder for the past 1.5 years!
Sorry I don’t know the thickness of those blocks, but your engine sure looks awesome! Worth waiting for.
Note that the photo of the cover off shows access to the two top nuts that mount the overdrive to the adapter plate. This is important should you ever want to remove the OD leaving the gearbox/engine in situ. At least with my 3.8S with the full syncho box and compact OD unit, it can be slid off the mainshaft of the gearbox with the rest in place.
Jason.
Is your rear mount S/420 or 4.2MK10/420G. I notice that your text states
420G.
That is useful to know.
ok got it sorted thanks to all of your help. I dropped the support again and loosened the rear engine stabilizer. I realized that I had a rubber seat on both the top and bottom of the spring (the book only shows one seat on the top) so I removed the lower one (still hoping it’s right to only have one). I also added 1/4" spacers above the support bracket, and then adjusted the stabilizer after everything else was tight. I have finger-width of clearance now. First test drive with the 4 speed was all grins although there are plenty of other things I have to sort out!
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Oh and to Peter’s question I think it’s out of a 420, but not certain since I bought a bunch of parts from a second hand seller. I forgot the difference between a 420 and a 420G.
Jason
Rubber usually at the bottom.
Is the exploded diag from a 420 or 420G parts book?
Peter.
It’s shinier than mine was. Paul
This is for sale on e-bay at the moment , its off a MK2 Auto !
I guess you need different types of mounts for different gearbox and overdrive combinations !
![s-l1600[1]](http://jl-discourse-uploads.s3.amazonaws.com/original/2X/c/c074082d6edcc2ee9afe8393c05aa3989c0bfb38.jpg)
I’m a bit late to the party, but I have been searching for
pictures of my conversion which I did about 20 years ago, so I am struggling to
remember the details.
I can’t find any pictures unfortunately, but a few things
stick in my mind.
Spigot bearing; easy to forget.
I don’t recall having any particular problems with cutting
the tunnel; I think I trial tested the engine (from below) with the gear leaver
removed and marked a small square in the tunnel which I then removed. once the
engine was in I made up a cover for this hole out of steel and used a gear
leaver rubber gaiter (BD14134).
I used the original console which had a hole under the trim
panel already pressed out by the factory where the gear leaver comes through.
All that needed modifying was the top trim panel insert which I cut a corresponding
hole in and fitted a leather gear leaver gauntlet.
I used the long gearbox support as in Ian’s photo and a one
piece manual prop shaft.
Paul
Ian - that’s definitely not for a Mk2 Auto - the ebay seller is mistaken.
Thanks for that Jason , if you know what it is off , I will drop the guy a line !
Yes I would say it was the same !
Hi guys, me again with yet another confounding problem wit my transmission conversion. I have it all up and running now but I am getting a nasty grinding or rattling noise when running under torque. There are no noises when the car is in neutral or with the clutch depressed. But when running in say 4th gear, if I push on the accelerator to torque the engine I get a grinding (or maybe rattling) noise either from the transmission or the bell housing. I think it also happens in 3rd gear but worst in 4th. If I depress the clutch while under torque, of course the clutch slips but the noise goes away. Thinking it could be something wrong with the pressure plate. The 4-syncro gearbox was completely overhauled by a very reputable local British car transmission specialist so I really doubt it’s from the gearbox. Any ideas?
If it was the clutch I would have thought the noise would be the same in all gears , if there is no noise in 1st or 2nd , I would say its a gearbox issue !
Check that a self tapper or bolt is touching the drivetrain under load,
sometimes happens with a conversion! Noise transmitted with a
small contact area is surprising .
Peter B.
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Anyone have pictures of attaching the new bell housing to the engine for a manual conversion? Is there an adapter on the engine side?