BAC6019 Left Door Seal

Recently purchased the above to replace the door seal on my ‘88 XJ-S coupe; the replacement has 6mm/1/4” vent holes about every 10-12”, presumably to vent the bulb to ease door closing. The original had no holes, nor does the right side. Anyone know if this was a revision or later model feature?

Anyone notice these vent holes on their coupe? Perhaps a facelift thing?

Are these holes not for access to small screws or pop rivets used to mount the door seal?

I think they are to allow door seal to compress when door is closing

Question is does your car have them???
They are not for mounting, the seal fits in a steel channel.
My ‘88 does not have them on the OE seal. Replacement seal has them. Being told “they all have them”.

Has anyone noticed these holes in the door seal on their XJS coupe?

Looking at my 95 coupe just now I see the driver door has no holes in the seal.

However, the boot seal and the 2 to 3 feet of “seal” above the radiator to the underside of the bonnet have the holes.

I remember that my 2003 350 ZX had holes in the hatchback seal.

Thanks, Jim. That was what I was looking for. I have also seen small diameter holes to vent the bulb of the seal on other vehicles, but not as large or visible as these would be. Guess I’ll look for a good used one.

Why would you want an inferior (i.e. pre-upgraded) seal ??? :confused:

Because the supposed “upgraded” seal would look like shit and will probably tear at the holes, which are the size of a pencil. And, as Jim Ds 1995 doesn’t have them, when was this supposed upgrade introduced?

I’ve used the ones with the holes. Work fine, with no tearing. Any original you’d find would have 30 year old rubber, less flexible, and would likely have a “set”, and not seal properly.

The seals I have seen on any of my cars that have holes, those holes are about 1/8 inch diameter…about like the lead in the #2 pencil. And the holes are spaced about 2 feet apart

True. The reason I am contemplating replacement is not that it doesn’t seal, it is because I tore it when reinstalling after some paint work. Still pretty pliable, but another used one may not be. Unfortunately where I tore it is visible every time that I get in the car,

I’m more concerned with an easy way (if there is one) in installing any of the door seals, holes or not. I really need to replace my driver’s side one, as it is flattened out almost completely after 100K+ miles and has caused a water ingress issue near the sideview mirror area, resulting in a soaked driver’s side floorboard. Only problem is, I remember these same type of &r&()($&$()($ seals as used in my XJ40s, and they are a major PITA to install. :angry: I know Jag had a factory tool they used to install them (looked kinda like a wide paintbrush with an “edge” where the bristles would normally be), but not usually any of us having one of those on hand we have to use (1) thumb pressure (SORE thumbs) (2) dulled screwdriver end (3) putty knife edge or (4) (I forgot the rest of the makeshift implements supposedly used :roll_eyes: ) … and then there’s tons of (1) saddle soap (2) Dawn detergent (3) dish soap + water (4) WD-40 or (5) (I forgot the other suitable lubricants supposedly used :roll_eyes: )involved as well, all the foregoing needed to try to ease the center “strip” of the new seal into the door frame channel. Total install time: up to several hours, inc. breaks where you throw something resulting from frustration and/or pain. :crazy_face:

It has been several years since my days with those seals and my XJ40s. Has anyone since then found an easier method? :confused:

Last/only time that I had mine off was when I painted the door jambs with the doors off; they actually are not bad. What I used was a trim stick, which is a plastic putty knife-like tool used for, you guessed it, auto trim work. Round off the corners and edges a little and it works really well to engage the lip into the channel. I didn’t use any lube. The trick is to slide the seal in the channel every few inches to ensure that it is all the way engaged and isn’t stretched.
You can get a trim stick at any auto body/ paint supplier for a couple $$$, buy a couple, they are very useful for popping off interior trim; some have a forked end for that.