Could it be that they are welded, but not in the traditional sense of welding?
Filling the bore in the casting, without aiming for penetration in the casting would definitely lock the steel tube in position. If the bores were Countersunk it would possibly behave a lot like a hot rivet, just applied in the liquid state.
i believe the differential case is steel not iron, run a file across it and you will see it is not hard. imho
ABSOLUTELY, since cast iron is really nothing more than a mass of closely-assembled cracksā¦
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Here is a website about welding axle tubes to cast steel differential housings. It canāt be all that difficult since millions have been done this way.
I donāt know the car in this discussion. I merely stumbled in on recognizing the use of the Salisbury axle. Quite popular here in the forties and fifties.
Indeed, an affixing of similar, but different, metals is an issue. The center section Is cast iron. Welding it is possible, but not with any ease. The tubes re steel and quite receptive to weld or braze.
The āholesā in the casting are not for plug welds in the classic sense. No joining of the differing materials. The fit is tight and the principle way of mating the parts. Metal is welded into the āholesā as location ālugsā.
My 49 Mercury came with a similar rear axle. Not very long after I got it, I noted a parting on one side of the casting. And, just a bit of a sag. But, it performed sans noise. whether it would have shown tire wear I can not say,. Not at the time, though. My workmate and I counseled. He was a far better .āwrenchā than I. It will n ot get better and will more than likely fail. A fix would be complex.
A used unit was the solution.
Why? Well, it was a 100,000 mile car. Clean as all get out. but, it showed signs of hauling a trailer. A rather large one, I suspect.
Merely age in this case ? Or extra strain by tight bearings. Or a bit of it, but with no tube movement of consequence.
I do suspect that build tolerance would negate measuring another for a dimension.
Fix:
Test assembly with the new bearings. If it turns freely sans slop and the bearings are easily fit, go for It. Weld the ālugsā in solid by arc or TIG.
Caveat. No expertise, here, only a bit of experience.
Carl
A few checks, suggested by comments from the forum, came up with the following:
Thank you for all of your help. The diff. housing is now coated with Gyptol and the whole axle waiting for black paint and reinstallation.
The forum once again comes up trumps (small T)
Mike
a
Ahā¦there never WAS a problem? Check!
Correct, the only problem is with my eyesight and imagination.
Trust me: been there, suffered similar delusions!!!
The Glyptol is only necessary on the inside, and only on the rough as-cast surfaces.
The outside was originally painted after assembly all over with gloss black without any primer, and it wasnāt a very good quality black.
But of course primer before the good quality gloss black makes more sense for restored cars.
The Salisbury axle originated with Charles Salisbury of Jamestown New York
in 1901. Clarence W Spicer, inventor of the Hardy-Spicer u-joint, partnered
with George Dana and acquired Salisbury in 1919. Dana has made many millions of them and still makes them for Jeeps, vans and pickups.
The current equivalent of the Salisbury 4HA is the Dana 44.
I donāt remember if we ever found an equivalent for the earlier Salisbury 2HA. Probably whatever was used in many American cars of the '30s and '40s.
http://www.dana.com/aftermarket/brands/brands/crate-axles
When noobs come on the list, and ask about what color some parts are painted, they think Im kidding when I say, ā runny, drippy black.ā
Yes I was aware. But with an almost empty can of Gyptol standing-by compulsion took over. Now for the drippy black ā or in my case Eastwoods Chassis Black
Iāve never been able to find any Dana/Spicer equivalent to the Salisbury 2HA. I could never find anything else in the family with the same pinion drop.
Another question when talking about rear axles.
I have an axle that leaks oil where the axle tubes goes in to the diff casing on one side.
I have cleaned it and tried some different kind of epoxies to seal it. It lasts for some time, from weeks to months, but sooner or later I can see oil coming out again. Not much oil leaks, but its irritating.
Can anyone recommend a proper way to seal this?
/George
general info only
from my experience with Jeep Dana 35 (same construction, but smaller than D44/ Salisbury 4HA)
Its very difficult to stop, I dont know of anyone that has, no matter what sealant
in the case of the Jeep situation, they get bashed and abused, and leak at the joint between pumpkin & tube, at that point they are considered toast, and another rear end is needed, (housing at least)
The tube is jammed in there, and even welding doesnt work
As our Jags are a lot older, wear and tear due to age, (or a hard knock) could be taking it toll ?
Be aware they actually leak worse at speed, as the ring gear throws the oil like mad,
so check your diff oil level frequently!
Outside leak repairs are the most difficult: no guarantee, but I have had pretty good success, using urethane sealant, in places like that.
Iād recommend the area be stripped down to the metal, thoroughly cleaned with something like lacquer thinner, then a fillet of sealant around the tube and case.
Let cure FULLYā48 hoursā-then see if that works.
Iād even consider putting some vacuum on the breather tube to try and get a bit more creep into the space.
+1 on the Urethanes!
VERY good idea, both during the cleaning with lacquer thinner, and with the cure.
