Backyard engine work, interesting work arounds

Hi all,

I haven’t posted in a while as I have been busy working on my 1983 Jaguar XJS. I last posted that I had a noise in the engine I had recently swapped into my XJS. I pulled the heads and it was actually not a dropped valve, but a washer that had somehow found its way into the engine (cautionary tale for anyone who has their intake manifolds off). It had embedded itself into the piston and was whacking the head. That will make noise. On a brighter note, the number 12 piston actually had an exhaust valve seat that had fallen about halfway out, so I was on my way to detonation one way or another.

I fabricated up a custom head puller and it has been working great. I first pulled the heads off the poorly running motor I had already pulled out of the Jaguar as a head puller test bed. Those heads were stuck good, but the solid plate head puller did its job. After I got the heads off, I was shocked to find that the head gasket had degraded severely and the inside of the water jackets were literally filled with rust and garbage. The heads initially looked okay and I took a pressure washer to them. Unfortunately after pressure washing, severe pitting was evident to the point that I would suspect head gasket failure at some point if I tried to reuse them. Interestingly, I also found that at some point in the engines life a bolt had found its way into the engine and had left its imprint on the piston and the head, but had somehow been ejected out because damage was limited to the imprint (I guess someone could have dropped a bolt into the intake and it seized and they yanked the heads before it did real damage). However, based on the poor shape of the gaskets etc., it must have been a long time ago.

When I pulled the heads off the swapped motor in the car, that is when I found the washer damage. Interestingly the inside of this engine looked a lot better, but I still can’t understand where all the sand and garbage is coming from, no wonder everyone’s radiators get plugged without filters

I decided to not pull the motor, as if I pulled the motor, I might as well do the whole bearing thing etc. and I had already been in there and resealed the entire bottom end and the bearings looked fine. Instead, I pulled the piston liner out (it didn’t come easy) and used a dremel to clean up the small amount of damage to the piston. I then purchased some new rings (These are getting hard to find). I honed the liner, installed the new rings and was able to get the liner over the new piston rings from the top. This involved a chunk of 1 liter diet coke bottle and two large zip ties, and about four hours of trial and error (with a large amount of swearing) P.S., you cannot allow the coke bottle plastic to go into the liner with the rings, there is not enough clearance. I had to snip some wings into the top of the coke bottle spring compressor (4th try) so it would slide down with the liner and not get jammed up in there, then I snipped off and pulled out the zip ties and the liner slid down the piston. I obviously cleaned and resealed the liner before sliding it into place.

On the heads, I spent a couple of days disassembling them and cleaning them up. I was able to knock the offending valve seat back into place and I pinned every valve seat in both heads by simply whacking a divot into the aluminum on two sides of the seat. Hopefully this prevents a future drop episode. I cleaned up the valves and then lapped them in the heads. I had started out with a stupid suction cup tool and lapping compound you can buy at any auto parts store. The suction cup tool is a waste of time. I had a bit of insight after the first two valves; I gooped up a valve and simply hooked my drill to the valve stem on the other side of the head and spun it back and forth about ten times. It worked fantastic and saved me countless hours of time.

So, I am finally on the home stretch so to speak. I need to reinstall all the valves, check clearance, adjust accordingly, then reinstall the heads. I spent a lot of time cleaning the surface of the heads and thought they are not perfect (water jacket area is still discolored), I don’t suspect I will have a seal problem. I carefully scraped the corrosion off with a scraper/razor tool, being careful not to work in the piston seal areas. I then used steel wool to clean off the entire deck of the head. All seal areas are smooth and shiny.

On another note, I am sitting here looking at the new metal head gaskets and am thinking, these are going to inevitably corrode, especially in the water jacket area. Why not use stainless steel on the head gasket and the head studs? Or at least make them corrosion resistant?

I realize that this whole project is kind of a complete backyard throw together job and could fail spectacularly, (probably will have higher compression in the cylinder with new rings, gaskets could fail, etc.) but, I am only into it for a head gasket set and a set of 12 piston rings (if anyone needs a single set of rings, I have 11 spares) Thanks for reading

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Matt
Nice work. Amazing what you discover inside an engine!! Nothing sounds out of the ordinary given you wanted a minimum intervention repair job…good discipline to stay with your original scope! I think that stainless steel fasteners wouldn’t have the necessary clamping force…about 1/2 to 1/4 of moderately strong alloy steel bolts…but possibly with the right mix of coolant/corrosion inhibitor not a problem…but you only need one owner to have ignored the coolant mix and you’ll have problems!!
Would pay to check your timing chain tensioner…
Should run as smooth as V12 silk when you are finished.
Good luck
Matt

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I’m glad to hear this worked at ALL. We’ve had reports that it’s simply not
possible. Can you tell us why you didn’t use a worm screw hose clamp
rather than this plastic bottle and zip tie idea?

– Kirbert

My hat off to you Matt.
Such a big undertaking and in a backyard no less (noted the shrubbery). I work on my XJS in a large shed with a hoist, concrete floor, music playing, blower heater for winter,big fans for summer and a bar fridge nearby.and still I would balk at trying to do what you do.
My girl is an 82 V12 same colour as your 83… signal red, so I can empathise to a degree.
As for washers in cylinders. My effort was to think those hard to pick off manifold washers would stay put as I lifted the manifold off… but once you start to pull it off there is no stopping and then there is this little bump followed by a jerk and washers cascade down onto the top of the head… and of course out of the five that fell three managed to find their way into their respective cylinders… one on top of the valve and two on top of the pistons. I could never get that lucky at the casino.
Hope you have some luck in your backyard.
Trev

I have already released and rocked the tensioner. It looks to be in good working order and the engine has about 65k original miles on it. I do not plan on fully retracting it so I don’t suspect I will have issues. Thanks.

I must say, it really wasn’t that easy, but now that I have the technique down, I could do it again probably a lot quicker. As far as the hose clamp, I don’t know how you would get anything down in there to loosen and remove the hose clamp after you slid the liner down, as there just isn’t any place to get any finger articulation once the liner has moved part way down. I would also worry about the hose clamp binding as you tried to slide it across the rings, plus, I guarantee part of the clamp would try to ride up inside the liner and bind there as well. An idea might be to use a chunk of coke bottle and a couple of hose clamps that are the kind that have the tabs that allow you to tighten/loosen by hand. That also might be workable. I went with the zip ties as I knew I could get a box cutter down there to cut the tie and that is what I did in this particular instance and it worked fairly well all things considered. I will have to take pictures next time and share.

I am envisioning in my head a ring compressor idea that would work in this tight space and make changing rings from the top not such a terrible experience. I will have to see what I can fabricate up. Thanks.

Something akin to a strap wrench?

– Kirbert

I spent multiple weekends last winter on my back under that car in the driving rain at 40 degrees fighting a number of issues as I swapped the motor in (I do have a car tent over it, but still got soaked). I have vowed that will be the end of that kind of suffering. What is even worse is I actually do have a garage. I am currently outside because I have run out of space. The current garage queens are hogging the good space; a 69 Mustang GT Convertible and a 56 Chevy Nomad. Technically, I could have pulled the Mustang out, but it was recently restored and it will never see rain again. The Nomad has yet to be restored, is a roller, and I don’t want it getting wet either, or have anything stolen (P.S. I am really thinking about putting a v12 in the Nomad as an affront to all the folks that swap Chevy motors into Jaguars. Showing up to a car show with that combination is very inspirational).

So my two year plan is to purchase some property and build a six car shop and install a lift, until then I am at the mercy of the elements, or I simply need to put the Mustang in heated storage for the winter. So I don’t plan on suffering forever. Thanks for reading.

2 Likes

Yes, or a highly modified standard ring compressor with working handles that run up and parallel to the liner allowing hand compression and easy release. The strap/modified ring compressor would need to be just wide enough to cover all the rings, or you wouldn’t be able to get it out once you slid the liner down.

Dear Matt,

All of that sand inside the cooling system was probably sitting inside the heads from when they were cast. There is no way for it to get in after the event but plenty of scope for it to have remained bunged up in a cavity somewhere rather than being flushed out after casting which it should have been.

kind regards
Marek

Ha HAAAH…you have Jag-itis!!! This may be the end of that kind of suffering…but it will not be the end of the suffering!!!

The true mark of a Jag lover is when you can make a fuel pump work again with nothing more than a pair of pliers and a nail file, at the side of the road, in the dark, in rain and snow, without ruining your shirt, jacket, or tie… and you don’t find anything particularly surprising about it.

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and I was feeling sorry for you

He heh…“Bond…James Bond.”

I like that V12 in the Nomad idea. And the reason :slight_smile:

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What Jim said love the juxtaposition.

I once saw a '57 Chevy with an Allison engine in it. The engine came all the
way back into the engine compartment.

And there’s some clown out there with a Jaguar V12 fitted to a Corvair. In
the front.

– Kirbert

I thought of doing this with a bucket T but I was going with Weber’s. it was a tough decision if I wanted to spend the money on the webers since they cost about the same as the bucket T and V12 I was looking at to make it out of. So I bought a 120 instead.

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T Buckets & Corvairs with Jag V12s: One engine option amongst at least 4 others in British Leyland’s Rover SD1 was the aluminium Buick 225ci V8 - more than one person has fitted a 27ltr Merlin V12 - I can only think about the lack of handling along with the uprated springs & brakes to allow the thing to actually move & stop again!

Rgds.

Andy.

When my stepmom was a teen in the 1950’s, there was someone in her
neighborhood with a car with an airplane engine in it. I’m sure she didn’t
know which type of airplane engine. Thing is, though, it wasn’t a car with a
swapped engine. It was more like a rolling bedframe, four wheels and two
seats bolted on a welded steel frame. Needless to say, everyone in town
wanted a ride!

– Kirbert