Adding another thread to keep track of the several items we are now addressing.
Having a difficult time tracing issues with fans. Able to determine fans are working, but apparently each relay we tried has been “bad”.
Is there a good methodical approach to trace these issues? Yes, we have a wiring diagram, but unsure how to tell if a relay is good or bad.
Appreciate any input, will update as we try to move along.
Well, for one, the fuse was blown because I had inadvertently shorted the power lead to ground: that’s not really a problem, that was expected!
And we will trace out the rest of the relay problem today, most likely.
Also, is there a good way to tell if the alternator issue is a regulator or relay issue?
The alternator guy seems confident in his diagnosis it was the regulator.
With this car sitting since 2008 in a garage, guess these things will go wrong despite not having any mileage on the parts.
Everyone says these old cars do better when driven. We are trying kids, we are TRYING to get it drivable. 
The relay provides power to the voltage regulator and the alternator field connection when the ignition is switched on, so the relay would be the first thing to check in my opinion. To do this:
WARNING - never mess with the wiring to the alternator with the ignition switched on or the engine running - bad things can happen…
With the ignition off, remove the Brown/Red and Brown/Purple (there will be two Brown/Purple wires sharing a single connector) wires from the relay terminals.
Short the two wires (Brown/Red to Brown/Purples) together using a length of wire, so that the relay is bypassed. This will power the voltage regulator and field coils of the alternator independent of the ignition switch. This should only be done as a temporary thing to test the relay, so disconnect them as soon as the test is complete.
Start the engine. Monitor the battery voltage - if the alternator is working you should see 14-14.5 volts across it. If you do, then the relay was the problem. If not, the voltage regulator is the likely cause (assuming the wiring is correct).
Turn the ignition off, and remove the shorting wire. If the relay is bad, but “clicks” when the ignition is turned on, it may just be a case of oxidized contacts. The relay can can be removed and the contacts cleaned up with fine emery paper to restore the fucntionality.
Good luck!
Alternator issue resolved! 
You can’t it hangin’ like that – – what was the problem / solution?
Inquiring minds want to know
The alternator relay was miswired. Onto the fan circuit.
My first recommendation to check 
That begs the question f the accuracy of the rest of the wiring. Did Candiece’s father do the wiring or did he farm out that aspect of his restroation?
Twas, soon as you hepped!
Looked back in the archives and didn’t see a picture of the setup for ottor switch on E-type S 1.5, Anyone have a picture by chance they could post up?
Thank you!
Depends. Early 1.5’s were series 1 4.2’s (one fan). These didn’t have relays. later ones were series 2’s, and had the S2 setup (two fans). If the S2 setup, then it’s different, depending on whether you have AC or not. Sooooo…what is it you are looking for
As far as I recall, the otter switch is simply a grounding switch for the relay on the S2s.
Two relays in parallel if it has A/C.
It does not, being non-AC.
And her Jag has the two radiator cooling fans
Yes… it does…?
If so it must have been a very few series 1.5s that had the single fan setup. My car is the 80th Series 1.5 OTS produced and it has the dual fan setup.
As for Candiece’s question, a little clarification as to what she needs? If the question relates to wiring, it doesn’t matter which wire is on which terminal on the otter switch as it is simply an on/off switch (as others have stated).
