I prefer the hammer method, and recently used it on my 420G, as no tool will fit the track rod ends, back up the joint with a large hammer is the trick, and for the ball joints, allow the spring pressure to assist.
1 Like
Hi Alan, I agree using a hammer seems a bit brutal but it is definitely the best way to free the tight bond that forms between the tapers, even when using a ball joint splitter like the one Robin posted you sometimes need to resort to a sharp shock to get them to separate. If you hold the face of a lump hammer against the rear of the joint and carefully aim a couple of blows to the front section it will spring apart with no problem.
Thanks. Would you do this with the track rod ends as well as the ball joints?
Yes +20ā¦
I must be thick this morningā¦ +20?
20 charakters is the minimum for a post so we all help us by typing something like
ā¦20
Ah yes! I noticed I had to pad my reply by accusing myself of being thickā¦
1 Like
Last parts have arrived for the balljoints job. New Nyloc nuts (should ideally not re-use old ones). Meanwhile Iāve noticed a serious error in the Jaguar service manual Vol 4, Page 60-20. Two specified torques have been accidentally swapped. Lower Ball joint to vertical link is shown as 20-27 Nm, clearly not enough for a hefty 22mm nut. Lower balljoint to lower wishbone (4 13mm bolts) is shown as 61-75 Nm, far too much for four 13mm bolts! That amount of torque would probably result in a shear! The two should be reversed.
Hi Alan, The Haynes manual ( if you trust it ? ) lists the ball joint retaining bolts as 55-62 Nm,
and the Ball Stud nuts as 47-68 Nm. Iām guessing the 13 mm retaining bolts will be high tensile steel if the torque is actually so high.
I hope Iām not teaching Granny to suck eggs here, but just in case you didnāt know already.
Sometimes when undoing nyloc nuts from track rod ends, the ball and pin will start to rotate rather than the nut. Use a jack or long lever to keep the pin tightly seated in itās tapered socket to stop it turning.
1 Like