I want to bench test my electrics (starting with the wiper motor) and I 'm considering a charger that would supply enough current for testing plus also maintain my authentic battery when I finally buy one. I was considering this one. Anyone have experience with this or similar models?
I have no first-hand experience using smart chargers to power individual automotive components. But I suspect there could be a problem. Personally I use an old dumb transformer based battery charger for testing electrical stuff. They may be available at garage sales or on eBay. Here’s a photo of your classic dumb battery charger.
I have to agree with Bill. Smart Chargers sense the load and respond accordingly. You need an old fashion dumb charger. Or just get a small lawn mower battery. And a smart charger to keep it topped up.
Lots of battery chargers - including units I’ve made - produce crude full wave rectified DC. It averages at 13 or 14 volts but isn’t pretty to look at on an oscilloscope. Better to charge a battery (and let it deal with the averaging) and get a nice consistent flat DC output to test your kit with. Paul.
I bought an Optima red top car battery I intend to use in the car when the time comes. For now, it spends most of its time out of the car and hooked to the smart charger I have. I hook it up to the car when I need it (to check wiring, run the engine, etc…), and it’s always available if I need a 12v source.
I would recommend a 30 volt adjustable power supply. Both voltage and current limit are adjustable, so you can set the voltage to ~12 Vdc and slowly bring the current up to be sure nothing is starting to smoke. A very safe way to test out old or reconditioned electrical components. (Don’t do this with modern electronics particularly any with chips in them.) For example:
.Makes it easy to test small devices without the fuss of a clumsy pulgged-in device. I charge the battery about once a month on an old 6A charger. For serious testing, as I was telling someone the other day, you really need a variable power supply, say something that can go from 24V down to 1.5V. That would allow you to test things like voltage regulators or dash instruments.