Anyone have experience using Beck Arnley gaskets? They seem to be what I can get from local stores. Trying to determine if I need to order OEM somewhere online or if the Beck Arnley are decent quality. Will be replacing most seals/gaskets/belts so if any of their particular parts have an issue I would be happy to know about it.
Thanks!
EDIT: Particularly interested in the Cam Cover Gaskets as those seem to be problematic
Beck Arnley buys from many sources and repackages under their own name.
They are invariably paper gaskets.
If you go to a Jaguar specialist you can get the nice 6.0 style metal and rubbery stuff (gortex?) gaskets that never leak. Most 6.0 gaskets work on the 5.3. I did the oil pan, sandwich plate, valve covers, and filter block in SNG Barratts gortex gaskets and it hasn’t leaked in five years.
-John
Thanks John,
Any recommendations on particular source? Nothing near local to me that would have that stuff…
-Adam
Beck Arnley buys from many sources and repackages under their own
name.They are invariably paper gaskets.
If you go to a Jaguar specialist you can get the nice 6.0 style metal
and rubbery stuff (gortex?) gaskets that never leak.
If this is true, I personally would NOT buy the Beck Arnley gaskets. Insist
upon the gortex sandwich gaskets, and if someone sends you paper
gaskets, send them back. Jaguars had been notorious for decades for
leaking oil on the showroom floor, and Ford made the first serious attempt to
stem the leakage: Updating the gasket set to the gortex gaskets. For sure,
a couple of other revisions are called for to ensure a dry-bottomed V12, but
you’ll never get there accepting paper gaskets from aftermarket sources.
Most 6.0 gaskets
work on the 5.3.
Anybody know which 6.0 gaskets WON’T work on the 5.3? Just thinking
about it, I can’t come up with one.
Again for clarity: Besides the gortex sandwich gaskets, other steps toward
ensuring a leak-free V12 include:
Either replace the half moon seals with aluminum plugs, fill in the openings
with Marine Tec or JB Weld, or – failing such measures, simply install the
OEM rubber half moon seals but omit the cam cover gaskets in entirety,
sealing that joint with Loctite 518 instead.
If it hasn’t been done already, replace the triangulated-thread cam cover
bolts with new. Rather than the Jaguar upgrades, I recommend a set of alloy
socket-head screws one size longer than original and one small flat washer
and one split-ring lock washer under each head. Stainless washers for a
nifty appearance, but not necessary for function.
If you’re willing to go down that far, remove the tappet blocks, clean the
mating surfaces, and carefully apply a narrow bead of Loctite 518 and
reinstall. I include a diagram in the Book for the location of this bead,
because it’s not obvious; if you put it in the wrong place, it won’t make
contact with a mating surface. Note that disassembly to this point involves
retracting the timing chain tensioner, which can open its own can of worms.
But Jaguar specified Hylomar for sealing this joint and Hylomar is wholly
unsuitable; if you haven’t already resealed this joint, it’s leaking right now,
trust me on this.
If possible, replace the banjo bolts on the rear end of the tappet blocks
with longer, and use 1/16" thick copper sealing washers instead of the
paper-thin OEM copper washers. Soften the copper washers with a torch
before installing. And modify the cross hole for optimum oil flow.
Drop the oil pan and, one at a time, remove each bolt holding the oil baffle
assembly to the block, clean the threads on the bolt and inside the hole,
apply sealant (not threadlocker!) to the threads and reinstall.
If you ever have the opportunity, drop the rear main bearing cap, apply a
very thin bead of Loctite 518 across the top from the seal groove to the
hockey stick groove on each side and reinstall. Inject the hockey stick holes
with gap-filling sealant (NOT Loctite 518!) as per the ROM.
Replace the timing chain tensioner access plug with a new one, and
before installing it, cut the little tabs off of it so it slips easily in and out of the
hole. Then fab a small metal tang that goes under a nearby bolt head and
just presses down gently on the center of the rubber plug to hold it in place.
I’m probably forgetting a few.
It IS possible to have an oil-tight Jaguar V12. What is NOT possible is
having an oil-tight Jaguar V12 by simply following the ROM assembly
procedures to the letter. Jaguar evidently didn’t know squat about sealing
the bottom of an engine. You have to do some out-of-the-box thinking of
your own to truly seal this engine.
– Kirbert
Hi Kirbert,
Thanks much! I have been browsing the book, but this is a nice checklist. Most of these areas are on the to-do list when the car arrives. Hopefully in the next month or two so I can have it disassembled across the garage for a couple months and sort all of this out before warm weather hits.
I’ve had mixed results with Beck Arnley gaskets - Yep Paper! I’ve used their cam cover gaskets, if the surface is spotless, and the cam cover isn’t warped, they work just fine. I don’t use RTV or spermatex gasket “sealer” goo. Just the gasket and they seal fine.
I had a tough time getting the gasket for the thermostat housing. I could find 1 but not the other. Ended up making it out of gasket material. I didn’t want to wait for it to be shipped. and the shipping was more than the gasket.
I’d use OE gaskets for head gaskets, oil pan, water pump, or any other gasketed part that takes days or weeks to replace.
The updated – metal core and teflon (aka Gore-tex) lined gaskets for the cam covers come in two varieties –
Eurospare (aftermarket) and OE.
Both cost about the same – ca. $35 each.
Any other “brand” is most likely just repacked Payen (= paper). Those are available everywhere you look and are advertised at a fraction of the cost of the newer style ones.
Steve
PS I visit the closest Jaguar dealer in Wilmington Delaware only to buy gaskets. If they don’t have it in stock, they usually overnight it and have it ready for me the next day, at no extra cost. I suggest you try your local dealer and ask for EBC9627 and EBC9628
[quote=“thildemar, post:1, topic:350664”]
Particularly interested in the Cam Cover Gaskets as those seem to be
problematic [/quote]The updated – metal core and teflon (aka Gore-tex) lined gaskets for
the cam covers come in two varieties – Eurospare (aftermarket) and
OE. Both cost about the same – ca. $35 each.
Yeah, not sure who’s trying to get rich there. That price is WAAAY outta line
with all the other gaskets in this engine that are essentially the same
material, gortex/aluminum/gortex sandwich.
Fortunately, unless you have aluminum or otherwise solid half moon plugs,
you don’t want to be using gaskets here at all. Apply Loctite 518 all the way
around your new rubber half moon seals, press them into place, then apply a
narrow bead of the Loctite 518 all the way around the cam cover mating face
and bolt it on. Not only will you have a leak-free cam cover for the first time
ever, you’ll also save $70 on gaskets!
– Kirbert
I like this idea. How far does that stuff go? 50ml tube or go for the 300ml considering I will be replacing most of the seals in the engine?
I talk about Loctite 518 all the time, but actually I bet you wouldn’t use that much on this engine. The gortex sandwich gaskets are to be installed dry, and they are all over the place. The Loctite 518 should be used under the ledge on each cylinder liner, under each tappet block, under each cam cover, across the top of the rear main bearing, and probably a couple of other places I’m forgetting. I’ll bet 50 ml would do it.
– Kirbert