What can I do to help minimize the possibility of engine damage when starting the XJ6 after not having run the engine in six months?
Thanks
Lou
Take the coil wire out of the coil, turn the engine over for ten seconds a couple of times. Replace the coil wire and start the car.
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This.
And make sure there’s actually oil in it.
First off what Series ? does it have points and carbs or not.
I typically change the oil before I do the first spring time start. make sure the crank case vent screen and housing is clear of goo caused by oil and condensation. otherwise
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Check the oil
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If you’re really concerned about wear pull the plugs and spray WD-40 or a light weight oil in the cylinders the day before circulating the oil. Then again for 6 months may not be necessary and probably not a good idea. WD40 and a light weight oil could conceivably weaken the piston ring seal, by breaking down or loosening any oil soluble carbon or goo buildup that is strengthening the piston ring seal. I mention this because I don’t know the condition of the engine. this is a common complaint of people who take their cars to the dealer to have the inside of their engine cleaned. Never a good idea on a high mileage engine. the customer gets their engine cleaned out only to discover all of a sudden it burns oil? or worse a chunk of newly dislodged goo gets stuck in an oil gallery. or between a bearing surface and a rotating part. I’m rambling… sorry…
back on track -
I concur with @PeterCrespin about pulling the coil wire. However, I pull the positive (the ignition switch / key source) side of the coil so you’re not still pushing voltage through the primary and secondary coil windings.
I also take it a step farther by pulling the plugs to minimize any extra wear from the downward force on the connecting rods and an conceivably oil-less crankshaft. I’d also pop the oil filler cap off and keep an eye open for oil being pooling in the head. Making sure you’ve got oil up top.
If you’re really a glutton for punishment pop the cam covers off and crank it over to make sure there is oil pressure up top. and is coming out all of the proper oil galleries providing oil to all of the cam towers, and the rest of the valve train.
I’d also clean any goo out of the crank case vent sticking out the front. pop it off, clean or replace the screen, and clean the goo out of the housing. If required.
Oh, and be sure to number the plug wires first. It’s quite discouraging to attempt to fire up an engine that hasn’t been fired up in a while to discover it won’t fire because the plugs wires are on in the wrong order. Like I’ve ever experienced this…
If carburated, check the oil level in the tops of the Zienith or SU carbs. make sure the linkage is free of any restrictive movement, look for leaks. That’s probably enough…
a fuel stabilizer may not be a bad idea - if the fuel is more than 6 months old.
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Check coolant level to ensure that coolant has not leaked into the engine, Lou - and check oil level, also to ensure against coolant in oil. Ensure a fully charged battery…
As Mark outlines; there is no end to precautions if you want to be sure. But ultimately you have to crank - and if there is oil and coolant in the right places; the engine will be fine…
But engine may baulk for other reasons; damp and corrosion play havoc with electrics and their connections…
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
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Thanks to the suggested checks to make before starting the engine after 6 months of winter. In response to the question of model, it’s a 73 xj6, carbonated.
I love the suggestion of checking to see if there is any oil at all in the engine; oh ye of little faith, or maybe just experience. 
Regards
Lou
Lou!
When I do not run my xj6 in the winter month’s, I just go into the garage
I turn it a few turns to get fuel into the system, then after that I turn it a
couple of turns and it starts right away.
Then let it run long enough to warm up till I see the temp starts moving.
This way its always ready to run.
Walter
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FWIW: I’d leave the Jag for 6 months, over the winter.
My preparations?
Hook the battery back up, let the carbs fill with fuel, pull the choke, and start it.
No other real preparation needed. Folks, these engines are not dainty flowers.
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This is a very good advice of both of you. I am struggling for weeks now pretending that it is the bad Starter and/or weak battery. I purchased a new one with same effects! I even cleaned all the injectors and bougies thinking that it were these!
I am sure to think it will start tomorrow !
Again thanks for the good advice!!
Regards,
Dirk Ammersingh
SURINAME
XJ ser II LWB Saloon
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Well keep us posted. We, well I would like to know the outcome.
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What exactly are your symptoms, Dirk…?
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
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The starter is as slowly as a donkey. RPM less then 100
Furthermore I have cleaned all the injectors
I checked the Ignition and the coil The bougies sparkes!
I hope tomorrow I will check the Oil Flow and the Coolant leakage!!
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Slow cranking doesn’t really help in starting, Dirk - but should not actually prevent starting if everything else works…
Check battery voltage before or during cranking; the difference may need some interpretation - but 12,6V to 12,8V before cranking is good, and the cranking drop should be a couple of volts…
Excessive voltage drop implies high engine drag, a bad battery - or some starter issue/shorting. Low voltage drop may mean poor connections restricting current flow, worn starter brushes or corroded solenoid contacts…
Further; have you actually checked that the injector clicks regularly while cranking. And somewhat deeper; are you sure your ign sequence is correct - or roughly assessed ignition timing? Have you actually verified that the fuel pump is running - and that you can hear fuel returning to the tanks while ‘cranking in gear’ test?
As a further test; you may ‘dram’ the engine with petrol, replace the plugs and crank. If the engine stats, runs briefly and stops; ignition is OK - and fuel is a possible issue…
All that said; the slow cranking is an issue in itself…
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
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Dear Frank,
We thought everything was ok, but NO!
Firstwe observed that Both poles of the coil are pos!
Second: the start relais protection become hot!! We didn’t found the wrong cable connection!
Thirth:
Strange suddenly there is no Spark ?
Please have is avgoid path
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With ign ‘on’ both coil terminals should show ‘12V’, Dirk…
During cranking; coil ‘-’ is grounded through the ign amp (or points) to charge the coil - then the ground connection is ‘break’. At which stage the coil fires. What are colors of the connections on your coil…?
The starter relay has no protection. The relay may get hot with prolonged cranking - but it may indicate bad connections. The relay operates the starter solenoid, which in turn connects the starter to the battery to crank the engine…
Nominally, there should be 4 wires connected to the starter relay. Brown (constant power), white/red to starter solenoid, white/yellow to ign key and black/green to ground through the start inhibit switch. That the engine actually cranks indicates connections are correct…
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
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The picture shows the OPUS ignition, Dirk - is that what you have…?
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
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I would certainly put some good fuel cleaner into the tanks and run it
before putting into the sleeping mode.
walter
1978 xj6