Through my research I found 6, 71 s3 2+2’s sold in the past year on BaT with a low sale of $37k and a high sale of $47k. Which would suggest an average of $42k. Hagerty puts the average at $48. So maybe they are a bit high.
I think you’re points about value are more important than their estimates.
At this point I have determined that the things I cannot do on my own are body work, paint and the engine/transmission rebuild. Which is the bulk of the cost I suppose. I would have to add a convertible conversion to that and price it out. I was planning on dismantling, reassembling and interior work.
If you want some idea of what could be involved, this idiot is a few months ahead you. He has the fortune of working on a Jag with minimal rust (as per 35 minute inspection by Wiggie – on a lift).
Heavy documentation with photos if you decide this is the path of the righteous - the documentation and photos will continue.
John,
Recommend you start a notebook jotting down any and all information you come across regarding your car along with who you make contact with. Being able to refer back to your notes later will be very helpful IMHO.
As for a replacement motor cost that’s a very open ended question. A fully restored (recently) motor with all accessories would probably top 20K$. A long block (needing rebuild) w/o accessories can go from $250 upwards. Manual transmissions (OEM) are pretty costly. The Borg Warner automatic can be picked up reasonably but may also be in need of an overhaul.
Check the Vehicle Number of your car. If it ends in BW then from the factory it came with an automatic transmission. That number is also stamped into the firewall area under the heater box. No BW then it came with a 4-speed syncromesh transmission. Eg: 1S20005 - manual; 1S20005BW - automatic.
There are also numbers on the speedometer that relate to the differential (IRS) gear ration. Tags on the differential denote the ratio also but are harder to get to for verification.
If you want an honest “restore” cost opinion I’d speak directly with Dick Maury (Coventry West - Georgia) or Chuck at monocoque -metalworks .com. An honest answer can only be obtained after a detailed examination of your car and your expectations taken into account.
One very important question asked of me by the salesman of my first E-type: 'Are you mechanically adept to fixing cars?". Later he explained, if I had said NO he wouldn’t sell me the car. I bought the car and learned a LOT more working on her!!! I’ve learned a LOT over the years but that hasn’t stopped my love for the E-type!!!
Go slow and make notes. Compare and compare again. Put everything in writing, to include expectation dates and penalties. Reputable firms will embrace doing business in this fashion. Shade tree mechanics will be weeded out!!! That’s all I’m gonna say on that!!!
Good luck and keep the Forum posted on your progress.
May I suggest one of the first things you may want to decide is exactly why you would like a Jaguar E-Type. It may help you decide what direction you want to go.
Tom
Craig, I did the same thing on the V12…started out just swapping out the auto for a four speed, then I thought it would be a good time to replace the old interior, then it turned into a every single nut and bolt off restoration… 40k miles later and I’m
Craig, its actually dark blue. The original color was Ocean Sand and the car was my Dad’s daily driver back inn the early 80s. Here is a few more pictures:
Yep, Tail of the Dragon…Im in Atlanta, so we try and get up to North Carolina as much as we can. Also get over to the Blue Ridge Parkway and Little Switzerland at list once a year. JS
I believe Jeff will confirm that what you think may be a roof is a (factory?) hard top for the Series III convertible (AKA OTS). If you are not familiar with it, this hard top is like the hard tops Chevy sold in the 60s-70s for the Corvette convertible.
It was a not-very-often purchased option for the Jaguar OTS originally available for $700-800. It is a rather expensive option now ($4,000 - $6,000) – if you can find one. The rarest of the rare is the chrome trim that surrounds the rear window opening.
Craig you are correct, its the factory hardtop. In regards to John’s question about converting a 2+2 to a roadster, there are several folks out there that have done that, but I would rather sell the 2+2 and buy a roadster since the series 3 cars can still be bought for decent $$.
Oh, interesting. So the a-pillars don’t have metal frame connecting them? Merely chrome trim atop the windshield connects them? That was the other factor that led me to believe the roof was removed.
Yep, just a chrome trim on top of the glass is what connects the A pillars…and dont get me wrong, I really do like the 2+2s, I had a 68’ and loved it.
JS
You can see the chrome piece on the very right hand side of the first pic; close up in second.
My ID tag is attached to a bracket that secures the top of the rear view mirror rod; the bottom of the rod is bolted to the dash top. On the OTS, this rod not only holds the mirror, but – I believe – applies tension to be top center of the windshield; the center latch for the convertible top is located just above this point and the fitting at the top of the rod has a pocket into which the center latch secure.
I thought it was. It’s a nice Road but a bit crowded even during the week. Having photographers along the way is great though.
One of my favorite roads are GA 60 near Suches and Wolf Pen Gap road from Vogel state park. Just as many corners and very little traffic.
The Snake loop road in Little Switzerland is a good one too.
These were taken a year apart on the dragon, 2018 and 2019. The GTV6 doesn’t have the power of the E but the Busso V6 is a great engine and it has 50/50 balance thanks to the transaxle
