What is the best anti-freeze available in the U.S. for a 5.3L V12 engine?
Welcome, Carol, now that Winter is over! Basic green anti-freeze concentrate- diluted 50/50. Avoid the orange stuff, IMHO!
Don’t know what determines “best” but I switched to Evans waterless in my 6.0" liter V12 because it is supposedly non-corrosive, has a higher boiling point, and doesn’t need changing every couple of years.
Just my 2 cents
And use distilled water! I prefer Safeway.
Carol, “Best” can be determined by what works well for years and years of successful, non-destructive use. For sure agree with @DavetheLimey.
Add what @gregma says, change every two years and your good to go.
Can’t agree with Jim at this time, he even says “supposedly non-corrosive” and since Evens does not mix with anything else you must carry your own if it leaks out. Time might prove this product superior, but not yet.
jerry makes a good point. Plus it ain’t cheap at $40+ per gallon. Couple of years in and no problems — excepting having to tighten down all the clamps really good and replace a radiator cap - - the Evans is low viscosity and will find an exit point
…and, it’s reportedly flammable.
I could give a rat’s patootie how non-corrosive it is, that will NEVER be in a highly pressurized cooling system I have anything to do with.
Good water, regular changes, of standard antifreeze still seems the better choice.
Actually, I understand the system doesn’t build pressure when Evans is used. And your fuel system runs under twice the pressure the coolant circuit ever sees. And your oil is flammable, and it’s under high pressure as well. And your transmission fluid. And your power steering fluid.
In my experience, cooling systems tend to develop catastrophic leaks a bit more frequently than fuel systems.
That said, regular, periodic maintenance of both lessens the chances of either going Code Red.
And, given the pretty damn good job a properly-maintained cooling system gives, why should I pay $40/gal, as opposed to $8?
Tweety’s and Margaret’s cooling systems were pristine, after 48+ years, on good ol’ Denver water and normal AF.
Not saying the Evans is junk… I am just highly suspicious of new snake oils, until they are proven, and/ or widely adopted by the manufacturers.
But, just so’s we dont get crosswise…… YMMV.
Evans has actually been around for a long time - at least 30 years. But only in the last few years do they appear to be attempting to reach the aftermarket/enthusiast audience.
IMHO it is really better suited for low pressure/unpressurized cooling systems like a Model T. It doesn’t seem to have enough benefits for a modern high-pressure cooling system to make it worthwhile for me.
My rule of thumb for newfangled wonder technologies is - do any OEM’s use it? (like synthetic oil, ceramic brake pads, electronic ignition?) If OEM’s don’t use it, there’s probably a good reason why. And to my knowledge, no OEM uses Evans, not even McLaren or Ferrari. (GM did do a study on its usage in the 80’s or 90’s.)
Ditto: if it was that whizbang good, it’s likely they would.
I’m not entirely sure that’s a good criteria. OEM’s only do what’s cost-effective for them. It doesn’t cost them a penny to instruct you to change your coolant every two years. And it doesn’t cost them a penny when your Jaguar V12 overheats and drops a valve seat. Let’s face it, there are plenty of things that OEM’s don’t do that we’d prefer that they do, and some that we undertake on our own with our cars.
I’m not saying Evans is worth it. I haven’t put it in either of my Japanese appliances, which are 15 and 17 years old now, still goin’ just fine on plain ol’ 50/50. But if I still owned a Jaguar V12, I’d probably be considering it. Especially after I got the engine pretty well buttoned up for good, not planning on it coming apart again any time soon.
If it really has an significant advantage, at least some high-OEM will use it. Like McLaren and their gold-foil engine bay insulation in the original F1.
If it’s flammable it’ll be a hydrocarbon material. Hydrocarbons have half the heat capacity of water and about 60% that of 50/50 antifreeze. To me Jags have a hard enough time staying cool without using a material that has poorer effectiveness of removing/rejecting heat in the first place. Just my 2 cents
Apparently not anymore than the green stuff.
This is VERY interesting. Did not know the green stuff is this flammable.
Maybe we should all get air cooled engines.
Look at the flash and flame points on the chart.
Just finished reading this. Also very informative. Covers all the common fluids in cars. @Kirbert1 is right. A little long. The chart at the end is good.
Interesting: I knew Etylene glycol was flammable, but certainly never seen it burst into flame… perhaps the Evans is no more so.
I still am not convinced it’s worth the expense.
I shall remain open to its use, if —eventually—it’s shown to be better.
Even if the price was not an issue, I agree. I said the same on the 5th post of this thread.
I‘d say 50/50 does the job, but a water-free solution should result in less corrosion/debris building up. It has less heat capacity, but it won’t pressurize the cooling system much and thus can’t boil over. Also, I imagine it won‘t have to be changed so it will become cost effective.
Dropping valve seat will cost the manufacturer, but apart from that I can agree. The V12 won’t stop running just because the green coolant you fill in there wasn’t the most expensive, as long as it’s renewed frequently cheaper stuff will do perfectly.
Refilling with water instead of diesel in emergencies is a big plus.
It’s the heat and cool cycles that wears anti freeze out. Changing it out every couple years is a waste of time and money for cars that get few miles put on them. Monitor the corrosion factor with PH test strips.
Just recently I had to disassemble one of my cars that had 12 year old antifreeze with about 200 miles on it. PH and freeze tested as new, I put it in my daily driver. I use distilled water and Peak antifreeze, probably a 60-40 mix in everything, 60 AF. Supposedly Peak is compatible with everything, seems to be true, never seen a gelling problem even with Dex-Cool. Never had a rusted out freeze plug or anything else for that matter that I went through or bought new in my life. If anti freeze doesn’t go bad sitting on a shelf, it doesn’t, then it won’t go bad sitting in a radiator. I suspect most problems arise because of poor previous maintenance, flushing does little to get rust deposits out in the corners and crevices of the cooling system.
Is there a story, there?