That’s tricky - a Series Land Rover has nothing so sophisticated as self-adjusters.
Yes, most of the fluid passes through the large unlabeled hole to the right of hole X and is pushed by cup seals F and K.
I’m thinking you are not getting bubbles to pass out through X when the piston is withdrawn.
Michael,
Maybe you could try jamming something like a popsicle stick or piece of sheet metal between each assembled front drum and brake shoe, to prevent the front shoes from moving.
Then, apply the brake pedal.
It seems to me, that if you then still felt a spongy pedal, it would pretty much have to be caused by an air bubble still trapped somewhere.
If you felt a firm pedal, then the sponginess would be due to excess mechanical play remaining somewhere in the front brakes.
Does this make sense to try ? At least, you wouldn’t have to disassemble anything again, to maybe find out something.
When you say “Im not satisfied with the pedal,” what about it is NOT satisfactory?
How Ive done many brake systems: just did it with Margaret.
i always gravity bleed, just used 100mls total to bleed a rear drum brake SWAP, so 7L is ridiculous
if fluid does not drip out, I crack each union, starting at the MC and see if fluid runs out, if it doesnt somethings is wrong,such as a blocked line
MK7 are hard to bleed…afaic, some pipes are above the nipple
I believe they are prone to suck air thru the slave caps too
further to this, I will usually do my fronts FIRST, gets air out of the system
also block my lines so minimal fluid bleeds out during work
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Rob, I have been studying this picture carefully trying to think of a reasonable way of ensuring it is clear without draining the system. I suppose I can remove the mainline at the front, then take the master out totally and poke around at it on the bench.
OK I have a plan!
I just spoke to Lazar at Apple Hydraulics and here is what he suggests: remove the pressure line from the front of the master cylinder, and quickly put a plug in the outlet. If you do that and push on the brake pedal it should be very stiff as it will be hydraulically locked. If it goes down slowly, fluid is bypassing the seals. It’s going to be messy but will clearly isolate the mc if it is the problem.
With regard to hole X: When the cylinder is sleeved, they reach in through the top and drill through the X hole and the larger hole. They have to drill them after they are sleeved Both holes are accessible from the filler hole.
If test one says the MC is the problem, I’ll ship it back to Lazar. If the MC holds pressure as it should, does that mean I don’t need to look at the X holes? Seems like the pedal would be noticeably spongy if it still held air in the mc. Otherwise I’ll remove the MC and check out the holes.
I was told that about my EType clutch cylinder, I did it several times unsuccessfully.
Doest work on all cases. The clutch on an E is one example!
I have come to believe most good ideas don’t work.
Mmmmm…on balance, most Ive tried or have invented, have worked.
Well, I can say everything I have seen you do out here which was hard miserable hot greasy work, you succeeded quite well Paulie.
Good to know that Apple Hydraulics is aware of the X hole.
It is .028" diameter. You could try a straightened out paper clip to see if it is clear. You should not feel the rubber cup F, it is supposed to retract a bit beyond the hole.
When I tried silicone Dot 5 fluid in mine it swelled up that cup and it blocked the hole, so my wheel cylinders pumped up but would not retract.
Oh god… that 114 degree day in Morgan Hill!!!
hi michael , i am going to suggest a few things to do before you start pulling stuff apart again:
if the car runs jack up the rear as high as practical and run it on jackstands - apply the handbrake a number of times to prove the rear works mechanically. readjust and try your pedal feel.
before you deadend the master cylinder try plugging off just one branch of circuit - then other, if you are quick with plugs you will not get much air in system.
if you can make the rears work hydraulically that proves them and the master good.
this is probably all redundant but i hate taking stuff apart again even when i am sure what is wrong
It’s easy using a smart trick when you’re comfortable, the car is on a lift, and you’re not pressed for time.
It’s a different story when the sweat is pouring into your eyes at the side of the road and the clock is ticking down the end of this rally stage.
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Mr. Ribbler,
Thanks for the good suggestions. The car is not yet running so that is a good reason for elevating that milestone in my hierarchy of priorities. I checked the handbrake initially to ensure the rear shoes were working before I put fluid in the system. It also assisted in seating the shoes in the backing plate assembly. Also, please note the brakes do work and I can lock up all 4 wheels on the jack stands right now, but the pedal is almost on the floor. One issue is the car parked is in a paved area in a side yard but with a long downhill driveway. I am considering after getting the car running, driving it (slowly) in the yard and operating the brakes a lot, then jack up a corner at a time and adjust the rear brakes and manually adjust the self adjusting front brakes. I can not understand why the self adjusters don’t. Thanks for the suggestion. Mike
Rob, it dawned on me that I can go to the hobby shop in town and get music wire quite long and it comes in .001 inch increments all around .028, so I can get an assortment undersize and step up as close to .028 as I can. That will be easier and safer than a paperclip and pretty easy to do.
Thanks, Mike
Or MIG welding wire or a guitar string.
Are we absolutely sure the 4 front brake adjusters are working properly…meaning the shoes are not pushing the piston all the way back down their bores when brakes are released?