Hi everyone, haven’t posted for a while - car has been going great thanks to the Jag Lover archives!
A new problem cropped up this week - driving along at 70mph and the speedo went straight to 0. Nothing to do but continue to drive home with GPS to keep speed in check. Got home and put it in park. Could not get out of park again. Gear shift interlock was stuck on. Used the screwdriver trick under the cover to get moving again and got into the garage.
After checking the 94 4.0 Electrical guide, I traced the problem to blown fuse #16 on the drivers side fuse box for “Gear Shift Interlock and Trip Computer Speed Interface”. I don’t actually have a trip computer, just the old clock in the middle of the dash. Replaced the 5A fuse but didn’t get more than 100 yards the next morning before the speedo dropped back to 0 and the fuse had blown again.
Next guess was maybe a short on the sensor cable due to getting too close to the exhaust or diff casing too hot. So I disconnected it and put in another 5A fuse. This time it ran for about a mile before the fuse blew again. So now I’m thinking it isn’t the cable from the diff to the speed interface (unless running the car with speedo disconnected is itself a failure mode for the trip computer interface?) but something further down the line.
I’m think the speedometer/trip computer circuit is the culprit and the gear shift lock out is just collateral damage because of the shared fuse. A new fuse won’t trip straight away, so I’m thinking maybe a short due to vibration or bumps in the road. Car also runs perfectly, so the the ECU is getting all the info it needs.
Any tips or experience on what to look at next? Suspect a short inside the speed interface module itself?
James, with specified bit, it’s easier to check the actual amp load on the fuse and at what moment the fuse goes out.
I suspect solenoid itself as with ageing it may take more amps to operate. I understand that you’ve checked the brake lights/switch already and there is no issue with these.
Another thing would be to check the load on the fuse with brake pedal depress - as far as I remember this is the solenoid reaction point. Several depresses would cause almost constant operation/increased amp drain, then you can see if it trips out. Another way to save hassle would be fitting 6amp auto fuse and see if it is still the issue. Don’t expect anything to burn with 1amp increase - there is plenty of engineering safety design there already. Similar issue with XJS relates to central locking mechanics (ageing/wear). You can check actual amps drain with simple multimeter as well, that however may be difficult during the ride…
I’ve ordered one of those fuse current testers and it’s on the way. While I wait I did some more basic testing this weekend.
Opened up the gear selector cover and checked the interlock solenoid for free movement. With a fresh fuse installed, the key in but the engine not running, every time I press the brake pedal the interlock releases and I can move the lever out of park with ease.
Did this some 20 times over and the fuse did not blow again.
Left the cover off the fuse panel and went for a drive down the lane behind my garage.
As soon as the speedo got close to 10mph the fuse went. I could clearly hear the click and the needle fell back to 0mph. No pressing on brake pedal, no shift interlock involved.
I think it’s the trip computer part of the circuit that is causing this fuse to blow and just coincidence that the the fuse serves the shift interlock as well.
When the current tester arrives I’ll do more checking. I have the 94 electrical guide and there seems to be very little between the speed interface unit in the trunk and the trip computer/binnacle. But if anyone has any ideas what wires to check for potential shorts, all help appreciated.
