Bonded windshield on a SII

Very interesting thread…!
And even more so, as I want in the near future to repaint the car and address the famous leak from the windshield.

Eric’s idea is indeed intriguing, albeit I think that the chrome trim actually adds something and works well to the period design of the XJ.
Bellow is a mock-up of how it would look with out the chrome.


.

This is an other very interesting thought and I think will have a much slicker look.
I wonder how it could be done to be nice and neat.

Aristides

3 Likes

Good evening everybody,

everybody knows the look of worn out car carcasses with lost chrome strips around the screens - it looks just so incredibly miserable and Aristides’ pics demonstrate it.

The SIII screen is designed for use with brightwork. “Modern” cars with glued in screens just have much closer gaps and black tinting inside the outer screen part.
grafik

I doubt you can glue a standard SII screen into a standard SII body. You’d have to redo not only the entire surrounding lip with a part welded in but also extend the body curves towards the screen, maybe with body tin. If anything you might ponder to paint the stainless trim in body colour or anodize it matte black.

Good luck and keep us posted

Jochen

75 XJ6 4.2L auto (UK spec)

I have to say, I like it as per Aristides’ mockup but would have to see it in person.
The glue area on the screen seems low and I do think the chrome strip adds a limited amount of safety, whether required or not.

Here are a couple of videos about fitting original glass but “flush”. Not for the fainthearted :slight_smile:

1 Like

Now that I have removed the rear glass, fantasies of a “flush mount”, no chrome set-up are haunting me again.

Thinking of fitting the glass with urethane after reducing the aperture by welding in aperture pieces from a donor XJ.

That would add another 5-6 weeks to my overall schedule. But if I don’t try it I will regret it. Reasonable choices or crazy choices? :slight_smile:


1 Like

Very interested to see what you come up with Eric.

Couple of thoughts:
I imagine that the screens are slightly smaller than the aperture, so you need to extend the flanges att the body?

From my experience the body aperture curvature and shape must be a exact match, especially if it’s flash mounted, the gap must be absolutely equal, any imperfections will show a lot.
I had huge trouble fitting my rear screen, the car had an accident and the C pillar was badly repaired, the gap was not even and it was sitting proud in one corner, just 3mm but enough to ruin my day and take the screen out again to do it again… Mind you, I was still using the chrome trim that had some adjustability.

As the SIII apertures and glass are different this means you will have to modify the donor pieces, so you will lose any reference points. Don’t know how different they are and if this is possible, but If you go that route maybe you should use the SIII glass? And they have the black edge so it solves that too.

I wish I had a pair of SIII screens handy to do a trial fit.

My understanding is that the SIII roof line is higher than the SII, pointing to taller screens, but not wider. Also, the curvature might be different…

A whole new can of worms hey? :slight_smile:

Yes… And a very big one.

S3 glass shouldn’t fit…

Would you have some exact measurements?

No, but the roofline is way different and you (or Aristides) want a perfect fit (so would I)…

How much space is between glass and body?

Another possible consequence could be that the coupe roof being less structurally rigid than an S3, a bonded in screen might crack. Or will it aid the rigidity? Either way, the aperture will need modification and perhaps the area upon which the glass will sit will not be at the correct angle to get a good flat surface to bond, so that may need modification. You’ve encountered plenty of headaches so far, do you actually want to create them as well? All strength to you if you proceed, but it might be small detail overlooked by most.

1 Like

“A vaincre sans péril, on triomphe sans gloire”. Le Cid - Pierre Corneille :slight_smile:

I thought about rigidity and it seems that the answer to this would be a set of front and back XJS/DB7 type undercarriage braces that was on my plan anyway.

s-l400

You should skip this idea because the “window graphic” is specific XJ trait.

There are better ways to make it unique… a series I front end, Daimlerize it, a bitchin color, black out the false B pillar…

Let me know if you aren’t convinced and I’ll lay a series 2 glass on a series 3 and see how off it looks. I think it will be weird.

I’d love to get the exact measurements of a S3 rear glass and front windshield.
I believe that the S3 glass route is not the way to go. Doing a “classic” weld -in of more metal around the original screen is s more promising route.

It will look weird whatever you do, Eric…:slight_smile:

And you are faced with the possibility of fitting a too large screen in a smaller aperture, with possible different curvature. I know you like a challenge - and here you are on to a lulu…:slight_smile:

Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)

Agreed.
The welding of the secondary aperture within the existing aperture would also strengthen the window frame itself.

There is the additional possibility of welding an extra reinforcing (T-shaped?) brace between the primary and secondary channels.

Re rust treatment and prevention, I have come to prefer chemical solutions, such as rust converters over POR. I find that POR can flake and just peel off.

I also love “Fast Etch” by Eastwood. It leaves a zinc-based protective surface that is part of the steel layer and provides excellent adhesion.

Eric,

I doubt whether just welding in some extra steel will do any good. The entire curvature of the roof is different from SII to SIII. If anything, cut an entire SIII roof, shorten it and put in on the SII body. You might do a SWB station wagon as well, :wink:

I’d rather be tempted by putting an XJ81 drivetrain underneath than spoiling the perfect roofline of a coupé.

Good luck

Jochen

75 XJ6L 4.2 auto (UK spec)

2 Likes

Rear:

Height wise they are the same, 23” on both series 2 and 3. The big difference is the lack of corner wrap around on the series 3 rear. Series 3 glass is much flatter.

Front:

24” on series 25” on series 3.

Rear photos:


2 Likes

Thank you John!!

What do you mean by “corner wrap around”?

Thanks.