Very interesting thread…!
And even more so, as I want in the near future to repaint the car and address the famous leak from the windshield.
Eric’s idea is indeed intriguing, albeit I think that the chrome trim actually adds something and works well to the period design of the XJ.
Bellow is a mock-up of how it would look with out the chrome.
everybody knows the look of worn out car carcasses with lost chrome strips around the screens - it looks just so incredibly miserable and Aristides’ pics demonstrate it.
The SIII screen is designed for use with brightwork. “Modern” cars with glued in screens just have much closer gaps and black tinting inside the outer screen part.
I doubt you can glue a standard SII screen into a standard SII body. You’d have to redo not only the entire surrounding lip with a part welded in but also extend the body curves towards the screen, maybe with body tin. If anything you might ponder to paint the stainless trim in body colour or anodize it matte black.
I have to say, I like it as per Aristides’ mockup but would have to see it in person.
The glue area on the screen seems low and I do think the chrome strip adds a limited amount of safety, whether required or not.
Very interested to see what you come up with Eric.
Couple of thoughts:
I imagine that the screens are slightly smaller than the aperture, so you need to extend the flanges att the body?
From my experience the body aperture curvature and shape must be a exact match, especially if it’s flash mounted, the gap must be absolutely equal, any imperfections will show a lot.
I had huge trouble fitting my rear screen, the car had an accident and the C pillar was badly repaired, the gap was not even and it was sitting proud in one corner, just 3mm but enough to ruin my day and take the screen out again to do it again… Mind you, I was still using the chrome trim that had some adjustability.
As the SIII apertures and glass are different this means you will have to modify the donor pieces, so you will lose any reference points. Don’t know how different they are and if this is possible, but If you go that route maybe you should use the SIII glass? And they have the black edge so it solves that too.
Another possible consequence could be that the coupe roof being less structurally rigid than an S3, a bonded in screen might crack. Or will it aid the rigidity? Either way, the aperture will need modification and perhaps the area upon which the glass will sit will not be at the correct angle to get a good flat surface to bond, so that may need modification. You’ve encountered plenty of headaches so far, do you actually want to create them as well? All strength to you if you proceed, but it might be small detail overlooked by most.
“A vaincre sans péril, on triomphe sans gloire”. Le Cid - Pierre Corneille
I thought about rigidity and it seems that the answer to this would be a set of front and back XJS/DB7 type undercarriage braces that was on my plan anyway.
I’d love to get the exact measurements of a S3 rear glass and front windshield.
I believe that the S3 glass route is not the way to go. Doing a “classic” weld -in of more metal around the original screen is s more promising route.
And you are faced with the possibility of fitting a too large screen in a smaller aperture, with possible different curvature. I know you like a challenge - and here you are on to a lulu…
Agreed.
The welding of the secondary aperture within the existing aperture would also strengthen the window frame itself.
There is the additional possibility of welding an extra reinforcing (T-shaped?) brace between the primary and secondary channels.
Re rust treatment and prevention, I have come to prefer chemical solutions, such as rust converters over POR. I find that POR can flake and just peel off.
I also love “Fast Etch” by Eastwood. It leaves a zinc-based protective surface that is part of the steel layer and provides excellent adhesion.
I doubt whether just welding in some extra steel will do any good. The entire curvature of the roof is different from SII to SIII. If anything, cut an entire SIII roof, shorten it and put in on the SII body. You might do a SWB station wagon as well,
I’d rather be tempted by putting an XJ81 drivetrain underneath than spoiling the perfect roofline of a coupé.
Height wise they are the same, 23” on both series 2 and 3. The big difference is the lack of corner wrap around on the series 3 rear. Series 3 glass is much flatter.