Bonnet cables and springs for S2 XJ 1978

XJ
1

Need the cables for the operation of the hood, Need the small
springs for both sides to open the latch.

                                                                     Thank you,
                                                                    Walter
2

I don’t think they ever changed. What springs?

3

Thanks David,I wanted to leesen the tension some time ago, and cut

them in half.

I need the springs on the hood.

Walter

4

The hood release design was the same for all ‘series’ cars, Walter - so any version will do.

I suggest using the original wire pulls - I don’t think the bicycle ones suggested by David will safely stand the strain. Motorbike ones likely will…:slight_smile:

Frank
xk6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
**

5

I trust bicycle brake cables with my life and although it was not my suggestion, just a quote, they seem to have the same diameter and the diameter is what is important so they can be fed through and fit. I‘d compare cables, done.
Bicycle cables take much more force than the little catch release spring tension. They are likely better than used cables from another xj.

Springs, try David Boger, everydayxj.com

6

I use JagWire bicycle cables for the throttle cable on the S1. Seems kind of appropriate! No affiliation yadda yadda.

7

Indeed.
And if one wants, there are also motorbike clutch cables, twice as thick from both the original and the bicycle cables. They also tend to have a plastic inner sleeve to help friction.

8

I did the same - just the inner. Paul.

9

Thanks Paul,

I want to keep the 2 cables for the handle, but want to change the

heavy springs, I think those heavy springs are just over done.

Walter

10

Walt,

for re-installation you’ll have to find a procedure to make both catches being released simultaneously - please keep us posted on this:-)

In my car the left side pops up immediately once I pull the lever, the right side follows suite. OTOH, the right side tends to pop up without any lever action upon body flex while the left side remains closed. Some greasing and hot air have helped a lot doing away with the malfunction at the right side, but still I know well that operation is not in sync.

Good luck

Jochen

75 XJ6L 4.2 auto (UK spec)

11

On my SIII the cables are adjustable, where the cable attaches on the latch.
Isn’t this the case with the SI/SII ?

12

I don’t think this ever changed. My S1 has adjustment for the cables there.

13

**
You may check and adjust the cables at the lock release lever, Jochen - they do not release at the same time; unequal cable ‘length’…?

The most likely cause of the ‘right’ catch popping while driving is misalignment. Either of the bonnet itself - check gaps, side and rear, for evenness?

Or striker pin misalignment. If it does not hit the center of the hole; you can, if the bonnet is properly aligned, adjust the pin direction by force. Put a bit of masking tape over the hole and dab a bit of grease at the tip of the pin. Lower the bonnet carefully to check striker position adjust as required.

Then adjust length of striker pin - it may not go far enough down to positively allow the locking plate to hold the pin. Release the locking nut and turn the striker pin with a screwdriver in the slot at its end. A bit of trial and error is called for…:slight_smile:

The pin is threaded into a captive nut in the bonnet; if the captive nut has come loose - it complicates the process…:slight_smile:

Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
**

14

Thanks Aristides and Nick! Right - the wires can be adjusted. It’s just that on a widely untouched car I’m wondering why the two catches work so differently.

So the thing that concerns me more is the possible misalignment Frank pointed out. There was no accident nor any replacement though. The PO only had the front cross members out to replace them and the gaps are pretty much as good as they may get on a SII car:-) … sure, if you’re a body panel specialist and invest some hundred hours you might end up with 4 mm equal gaps around the car … but then again, it would be a Toyota instead of a Jaguar.

I’ll try the method, you suggested, Frank, and test the striker pin misalignment theory. Maybe something went wrong in this department … actually, I’ve been hitting my head a couple of times as well. Knock on wood, as they say …

Thank you all

Jochen

75 XJ6L 4.2 auto (UK spec)

15

Twice as thick won’t work, by the way, or be very close without modification as the hole you pass the cable through with the bolt that pinches it is not that large.
Good luck with the bonnet, Jochen, I‘ve been there and I have no clue how I fixed it, but somehow I did. You have to get a feel and also find out how the pin hits the latch and how it is then held in place and released.

16

I had the same problem with the RHS, Jochen. Infuriating! I let the penetrating bolt run about a half turn loose now, the spring prevents it unwinding. Must be just enough movement to accommodate any flexing. Has not popped up in over two years. FWIW. Paul.

17

**
Most likely the trouble will be fixed by unscrewing the striker pin some turns, Jochen…:slight_smile:

However, one never knows - the bonnet may be twisted or indeed a bit higher on one side than the other - preventing the latch plate to engage fully with the pin…

Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
**

18

Paul, the problem I had those springs on the hood seem too heavy for just

releasing the hood.

I intent to put some other springs unto the hood that have just enough tension

to work the adjustment pins.

Walter

19

The whole operation of the latch being equal on both sides is the pin adjustment on the hood,

it has a nut attached the hood for the pin to be able to have an adjustment in and out.

Walter

20

You’re correct about the spring force. These 48 year old things never tire - could throw the bonnet a fair way up if the centre catch didn’t do its job. Having come up with a solution after a few annoying years, I’m leaving well enough alone. Interested to see how it works out though. Paul.