Bill is that too much or too little? My body guy got it from his body supply store for $85.00 Cdn so would be half or 2/3 that in the US. Can’t believe something from 3M can be that cheap.
Take a look under the boot at the low point and make sure none of the holes have plugs. Jaguar plugged the holes under the front of the stringers and that causes real problems.
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Yep: I made sure, loooooong time ago, to unstopper those holes, and as a result, there was no rust in those areas.
Funny enough mine had plugs too. I took a screw driver when I mistakenly flooded that area w fuel and it came right out nicely.
Wow Terry that looks great. So this material is pliable enough to get it worked into the tight radius of bends?
Again, did you go completely under the tank?
Any special paint that works best with this stuff?
Thanks Nick
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Based on Terry’s recommendation, I got the subject 3M pads from National Tool Warehouse. Circa $75 and free shipping. In terms of prices for modern paint and bodywork products, that is chump change.
Since I already have the products from painting the car, I plan to prime with epoxy primer and follow up with urethane basecoat/clearcoat. At the factory they would most likely have used the same paint they used on the rest of the car, which was synthetic enamal.
If I was going to take a chance on “rattle can” paint, I would try Rustoleum Professional High Performance enamal but color matching will be impossible. No enamal paint is going to standup to much scuffing like from sliding a spare tire into position.
3M clear bra, on top of the boot floor stringers, after final paint.
Problem solved!
Harvey- I’d seam seal the edges of the pads before primer/paint to help prevent water etc. from getting under the pads after thermal cycle/vibration creates small cracks along the edges. It may not be an issue but why chance it? That’s what I did and it came out very well.
Good idea.
As a general comment, do not use 100% silicone caulk anywhere you want to paint. Paint will not stick to it!! Automotive seam sealer, a generic product, of course is very paintable.
The material is quite pliable - not as much as Dyna Mat though but easily worked into the curves. They initially didn’t seam seal it, and the paint didn’t want to stick to the raw edges which appeared black. Seam sealer fixed that, and also covered the seam lines between the individual panels (the material is not long enough to do back to front with out an east-west seam. If you use the material there is a slight difference in the shape of the diamonds n/s and e/w so if appearance is important they should all be cut on the same bias. Paint was regular catalyzed paint - not base clear.
As usual read the instructions as to use.
It seems like a lot. I’ve already done the inside of doors. That leaves the floors under the seats which won’t be seen and could do with the Noico mat. Trunk floor under spare is the only thing anyone is going to see. and they are 20 in by 20 in IIRC?
I’ll sit back now and wait for the other posters to reveal where they got it by the sheet or at a good price (g)
do you take the plastic off the top before you install it or after?
I’ve always seen black from the tires transferred to the paint on the reinforcement ribs; like you might see on a car dealer showroom floor. I’d be putting white shop towels between the ribs and spare tire.
I used some 1 inch wide self adhesive black felt strips on the ribs to protect them from the spare tire. I probably would not have bought it specifically for this application, but I had it left over from another project, so why not.
They are 19.5 by 19.5"according to my tape. I used these because they appear to be a lot tougher than Dynamat, and of course the pattern. I used Noico under my seats because you don’t see it or beat on it, but it may not make sense to buy both.
The plastic is supposed to come off for painting.
Paul This is completely off topic but…do you know of any good cam grinders for E Type cams? Maybe you could pm me at terrysturgeon@telus.net
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Email sent…likely useless, but…sent!
Terry I just sent you an email,any Australian listers,particularly Victorian’s,will likely know these guys.
I liked the 3M stuff. Don’t believe in “Dyna-Mat”. Had tons of that stuff in our '62 T-Bird from the PO. IT was full of wrinkles and just seemed like it was wrapping a turkey for cooking later.
Thanks Craig. Very curious compared to N.A. and British businesses - they don’t appear to have (or use) email.
Terry - just to confirm, you only used the 3M between the rails of the boot, not over them correct?
Similar to Larry’s photo, pre-paint.
Thanks,
Nick