Boot lid seal replacement update

Hope they have that much in stock!!

:laughing:

For us Yanks on the wrong side of the pond but who drive on the proper side of the car . . . that’s 424 feet of rubber seal.
Or nearly 1 ‘n’ a half (proper) football fields (not to be confused with a pitch).
That’s a lot of rubber

Kudos and accolades to Candie!!
Hip Hip Hazzzahh
Hip Hip Hazzzahh
Hip Hip Hazzzahh

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Candie… I’ve had my E-type for 30+ years, and I’m still a NOOB LOL
Don

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:astonished: :exploding_head:

Well, that puts this in perspective. Already thinking through the assembly line for measuring, cutting, packaging and mailing.

Hope I have enough room in my 3 car garage!

:joy:

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Thanks Don,

That makes me feel MUCH better.

:+1: :hugs:

Get–or pull from storage–2 or 3 of those 6’ folding work tables, and create…

Barnthouse Shipping Works!

Maybe recruit the grandkids? :grimacing:

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In the spring I pre-cut as trimmer line from a roll. I just measure one piece to the appropriate length and then use that piece held next to the line coming off of the roll to cut subsequent pieces. For USPS shipping just use the priority mail packaging they provide. I know you aren’t looking to make a profit, but I’d hope the buyers would throw in something extra to cover any packaging and other expenses you incur.

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That sounds like a great plan.

And you are correct John on profit, I feel this is my small way of giving back for the assistance I am constantly offered by members here.

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I have a suggestion for properly fitting this seal on the variety of boot lid gaps that are certain to exist.

  1. Open boot and remove old seal and any old adhesive (obvious, I know…)

  2. Install the new seal so that just the first “gripper” is in contact with the boot lid seal:

  3. By slowly closing the boot lid, use the boot lid to push the seal down just until the boot closes. You will need to work this from the front of the boot to the back and don’t use too much force. If you have to push hard stop as to not cause any defirmation/bending to the boot lid.

  4. If successful with this positioning method open the boot and mark the bottom location of the seal using masking tape so you can get it back to this same position.

  5. Remove the seal and using your favorite slow drying seal adhesive place a small bead around the boot lip and then reinstall the seal to the masking tape mark(s) you made. Remove the masking tape.

  6. Close the boot and let the adhesive dry.

This should be as close to a custom fit as you are likely to get. I’d go easy on the adhesive just in case you need to remove the seal. For my car the seal fits very well fully seated, but these interfaces will undoubtedly vary.

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Am I the only one naïve enough to have expected the vender to provide the seal in pre-cut lengths???
After all – 96.83% of the orders are 4 meters in length

Craig,

You may have missed the fact that this seal was not designed as a boot seal for an E-Type. As such, we should be happy that it’s not supplied in 2m lengths for its intended application…

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That, David, is EXACTLY the case.
Thanx for the clarification.

Did not even think to ask.

Jae (the sales person) was amazing to work with me. They sent the sample and have worked with me as this order grew.

Should not be hard to cut in correct lengths. We have some heavy duty scissors as well as construction sheers for aluminum siding. Those should easily cut them.

Correct me if I am wrong, but I assume that at 4M there is some extra wiggle room.

If you refer to my prior posts, three meters will leave about an inch to trim, but I believe all of us are erring on the conservative side, so we’re ordering an extra meter to be safe. Four meters will leave roughly three feet of excess. Thus, for two cars, some of us have ordered seven meters which will still leave considerable trimmings.

Suffice to say, the price is very reasonable for four meters, so everybody wins.

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ok. need some clarification.
is this seal for a 3.8 ots? thought the seal was glued to the lid.

For the 4.2 OTS. Yes, 3.8 seal nearly until the end, fit into a channel on the boot lid.

Note the Clausager book mentions that the change from glued upper seal to fitted lower seal was sometime during 3.8 production, but no definitive date or chassis number is specified.

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I’m not sure when the changeover happened, but later 3.8 definitely cars have the seal on the car.

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here is my original 69 seal. no flap. round
(upload://fVygrXm5oC8um6OKxs2FzT3SEwE.jpeg)




bulb type.

In the event any of the folks interested in the group boot seal purchase were unaware, the details are on this thread: https://forums.jag-lovers.com/t/calling-all-e-type-ots-enthusiasts-boot-seal-big-buy/420136?page=6