Bootlid aluminium skin fitting

XK
1

I’ve rebuilt the timber frame for my 140 bootlid, and refitted the aluminium finisher trims around the edges. I’m making new steel flanges to screw to the timber for the aluminium skin to fold around. The old steel flanges have suffered quite a bit of corrosion where they were in contact with the aluminium skin, having had no protection (not even paint or primer) from the factory.
Obviously, I will paint the surfaces to be in contact before assembly - a good coating of etch primer on the aluminium seems a good start. But - has anyone used anything a little more effective on these contact surfaces? A thin sheet of plastic, maybe? This might allow movement, perhaps - maybe just paint, then run as much liquid Dinitrol or similar down into the flange?

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The photo shows the old steel strips and corrosion. Anyone used a physical barrier on this area before affixing the aluminium skin?

2

I bonded mine to the frame after painting both surfaces.

3

Thanks Jim - I wasn’t thinking of using a bonding agent or adhesive, more using a thin protective layer of something. Although given the relatively limited damage caused by 64 years of dissimilar, unprotected metal contact it may be overkill.

4

My theory was to add strength to the panel and avoid any rattle. I guess paint and waxoyl would work as good as anything if you want it to float.

5

I was just thinking of later replacement, should it be necessary. PU sealer or similar bonding agent would be very difficult indeed to remove. But rattle-free would be nice…

6

In 50 years are you going to worry :slight_smile:

7

In 50 years I won’t be doing anything very much.
I had to repair accident damage on a car a little while back that needed a new aluminium doorskin (not a Jag). The old skin had been sealed with PU before flanging during the restoration. Removal of this caused so much distortion of the frame that a complete door had to be sourced. You could argue that if a flanged joint was good enough originally, it should be fine now - but there’s an argument both ways.

The accepted, more modern, repair is to flange the joint as original but then run a small bead of sealant along the edge of the flange - open any car door from recent years and that’s what you’ll see. That’s probably what I would go for, but it won’t win any concours prizes. Which it won’t be entered for, anyway.